Lets talk EFI tank drop in's

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Feb 1, 2024
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I'm building a cruiser long story short I have a 86 V6 cutlass and a 96 TA that I LQ4 swapped and I kept the built LT1 and 4L60 from that for the cutlass.

I have an abundance of fuel system parts

1) Two brand new AEM 340 pumps
2) The complete system off the TA when the LT was in it. 255 in tank and high vol pusher pump with hot wire kit
3) EFI grand prix stock tank with the factory pump in it I believe. (was on a friends street car so the pump may be upgraded)
4) The stock cutlass tank, it's a carbed car so it's my understanding it's different

My question is can I just use the EFI tank from the GP and mod the TA pumps unto it?

Is the anyone who has done something like this?
 
You “can” run the GP efi sender in you stock tank. I had mine like that for a long time with no issues especially if it is a cruiser. If you had the a good efi tank then you are better off due to the baffling.

Easiest way would be the Corvette regulator/filter combo as long as you get a good quality one, not eBay/amazon.
I mounted mine non the trunk floor above the axle. Feed and return for the filter was super short and just ran one feed line to the rail up front.

For just about anything N/a that would be plenty.
 
The factory efi tanks from a Turbo Buick or a G body with the tbi 4.3 V6 are the best baffled tanks bar non. A factory tank will have a plastic baffle. The sending units are easy to get if the original one is a rusty mess. Racetronix has a very nice stainless steel one that will easily accept 2 pumps. Their stuff is sold through Full Tnrottle speed.
 
The factory efi tanks from a Turbo Buick or a G body with the tbi 4.3 V6 are the best baffled tanks bar non. A factory tank will have a plastic baffle. The sending units are easy to get if the original one is a rusty mess. Racetronix has a very nice stainless steel one that will easily accept 2 pumps. Their stuff is sold through Full Tnrottle speed.
I can also 100% recommend Racetronix. I have been using their updated sender with the their 255 for probably 5 years now. I daily drove the car 60 miles a day for about 2.5 of those years. Not once have I ever had an issue.
It's still in the car now but will be feeding a surge tank with 2-535lph pumps.
 
Wiring and the 5/16" tube through the sender on the stock hanger is going to cause a limit if you run dual pumps.

The wire gage on a stock hanger (or repop EFI buick) is good for a 255.

The 5/16 tube going through the stock sender hat is good for a single 525.

A filler neck on a cutlass is different than the neck on a cutlass tank as the fuel filler hole is in a different spot on each make G body.


If I were you, since it's just getting a stock LT1, just put a single AEM340 in a new EFI tank. Solder the neck off the stock Cutlass tank on a new tank. If you are really cheap you can reuse the GP tank. A 340 is likely not going to overwhelm the current capacity on the stock style sender.

Aftermarket fuel tank necks are notorious for having backwash issues when filling the tank. I implore you to reuse the stock neck.

I have a youtube video on this that explains it in detail, but I am too lazy to find the link. If you search 'G body EFI fuel tank' you should find it.
 
Wiring and the 5/16" tube through the sender on the stock hanger is going to cause a limit if you run dual pumps.

The wire gage on a stock hanger (or repop EFI buick) is good for a 255.

The 5/16 tube going through the stock sender hat is good for a single 525.

A filler neck on a cutlass is different than the neck on a cutlass tank as the fuel filler hole is in a different spot on each make G body.


If I were you, since it's just getting a stock LT1, just put a single AEM340 in a new EFI tank. Solder the neck off the stock Cutlass tank on a new tank. If you are really cheap you can reuse the GP tank. A 340 is likely not going to overwhelm the current capacity on the stock style sender.

Aftermarket fuel tank necks are notorious for having backwash issues when filling the tank. I implore you to reuse the stock neck.

I have a youtube video on this that explains it in detail, but I am too lazy to find the link. If you search 'G body EFI fuel tank' you should find it.
So you’re saying use the GP tank with a single 340.

Or use the GP tank with my cutlass neck? With a single 340?
 
Wiring and the 5/16" tube through the sender on the stock hanger is going to cause a limit if you run dual pumps.

The wire gage on a stock hanger (or repop EFI buick) is good for a 255.

The 5/16 tube going through the stock sender hat is good for a single 525.

A filler neck on a cutlass is different than the neck on a cutlass tank as the fuel filler hole is in a different spot on each make G body.


If I were you, since it's just getting a stock LT1, just put a single AEM340 in a new EFI tank. Solder the neck off the stock Cutlass tank on a new tank. If you are really cheap you can reuse the GP tank. A 340 is likely not going to overwhelm the current capacity on the stock style sender.

Aftermarket fuel tank necks are notorious for having backwash issues when filling the tank. I implore you to reuse the stock neck.

I have a youtube video on this that explains it in detail, but I am too lazy to find the link. If you search 'G body EFI fuel tank' you should find it.
The stock feed is 3/8" and the return is 5/16" once you cut the step down off.
 
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I always recommend saving the original GM filler neck from your car as they work tremendously better. You can fill the tank easily without it spitting back which occurs with the aftermarket necks. The baffles in the aftermarket replacements are about 2 to 2.5" tall. The original GM baffles are 6". If you have a good original baffled GM tank I would highly recommend using that. I made my own baffle using the factory baffle from my rusted original GN tank as a pattern.


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