Looking for OEM information on this 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

[Matin321]

Hello everyone,
I'm excited to share that I am currently in the process of purchasing a new vehicle, and my eyes are set on a 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. I have some doubts about the fuel economy of the vehicle, what are the monthly costs you’d expect to have on fuel, for an average use of the vehicle in a city kind of drive? I asked the seller for a window sticker but he doesn’t have one unfortunately.
Is there a way to get the window sticker if the owner doesn't have it?

 

[old80cs]

Personally, if I'm buying a vintage vehicle, and a really nice one at that, fuel economy isn't really anything I'm concerned with. Is it a rust bucket body filled together, how does it run and many other issues are way ahead on the check list. No offense intended. Good luck with the purchase, it looks clean and has a clutch!

 

[ck80]

Hello everyone,
I'm excited to share that I am currently in the process of purchasing a new vehicle, and my eyes are set on a 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. I have some doubts about the fuel economy of the vehicle, what are the monthly costs you’d expect to have on fuel, for an average use of the vehicle in a city kind of drive? I asked the seller for a window sticker but he doesn’t have one unfortunately.
Is there a way to get the window sticker if the owner doesn't have it?

Not the kind of car to buy for fuel economy.

It's heavy. It's got a healthy appetite for gas, and no overdrive if its the original drivetrain. Unless its had a bunch of work to the fuel system you dont want to run ethanol pump gas, youd need to run ethonal-free aka marine gas only. E10 wont be good over time. There's also the question if the heads were redone because when that car was built it relied on leaded gasoline both for octane equivalent boosting properties, and, the valves weren't hardened to hold up to the abuse without it. So, option a is to rebuild the heads, or, option b is to run a lead substitute.

Finally, amount of driving and your location influence price per gallon and availability of ethanol free gasoline.

 

[78Delta88]

Depending on your engine and how you drive it..., about 10 mpg. Possibly less.

And to retouch on some of the other comments. This was a 69 leaded fuel, 9.5 to 10 compression ratio (170ish psi) basic regular gas in 1969 was 89 to 92 octane.

The deposited lead from the burning the leaded fuel coated and helped lubricate the valves. If this is original, you have cast iron non hardened valve seats, non EGR.

Also non roller cam and engine oils today no longer carry the zinc additive. This becomes metal on metal wear on your lifters and cam lobes.

Bottom line it looks nice and depending on price point might be ok. But you need to see this as possible investment and not a daily driver.

Also just by cursory view of your photos... To me, this looks like a clean it and flip it car. Nothing wrong with that but get someone there local to you and get it on lift and check it over. Have someone with body shop knowledge, run a pick on those frame rails. Check over that floor pan. Check oil, engine, trans, brakes, ... drive it, etc...

 

[Rt Jam]

If fuel economy is the goal. Get it running properly and it will get better than 10mpg. Get a wideband installed to monitor the mixture and fully tune the distrubutor. Big numbers at light load cruising. You want over 40 deg which is only obtainable with manifold vacuum advance.

 

[78Delta88]

If fuel economy is the goal. Get it running properly and it will get better than 10mpg. Get a wideband installed to monitor the mixture and fully tune the distrubutor. Big numbers at light load cruising. You want over 40 deg which is only obtainable with manifold vacuum advance.

You are right of course. I just didn't want to get deep in the forest yet. If it has the original points distributor, it needs changed to HEI, open the gaps of the plugs.

I'm afraid some of this might be over the head of the OP and don't want to scare him away from the purchase if the price is right.