Manual Transmission Options

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Why would ANYONE want to do that?!
At the time, I thought it was a good idea to learn how to drive stick in the shittiest vehicle imaginable. Luckily, my buddy had one.
 
What rear axle? The 8.5's will last forever if loaded first (footbrake, autotrans) but don't take kindly to a shock load (Turbo V8 Clutch Drop).

A taller first gear (2.5's vs. a 5/6 speeds 3.X) might save the rear axle if its an 8.5 or smaller.

Currently it is planned to get an 8.5; nothing saying it won't change down the line to a beefier unit. But, we will start here and throw some upgrades at it.

I am hoping that getting a load off the nose will ease the shock of massive RPM clutch dumps. I do have a secret goal of pulling wheelies - and the lighter the car is the easier it should be.
 
Just got off the phone with AGE. Nathan was very helpful, candid, and detailed with the information about their product - it looks like this is a viable solution. It was nice to hear that they only deal in their product, so they are not out to sell you a kit built of things meant to generate a profit. Definitely not a bolt-in - but that is fine by me.

I am hoping to run a mechanical clutch using some of the factory 3-speed parts I have sitting in a box. A scatter shield-type bell housing is going to be a must given the application. It was also mentioned that a GV unit is always there too (supporting Azeem's advice).
 
They all seem to be good people there. I've spoken with Nathan, George, and Mike. Just don't expect it to be a quick call. They definitely like to inform their customers.
QuickTime makes a nice, SFI cert bellhousing, but it is 5lbs heavier than a Lakewood. I'm also running a McLeod twin disc RAT clutch, and can't say enough good things about it. It's a really nice piece!
With the 2.20 1st and drag radials, a Centerforce DF lasted 2500 miles and 22 strip passes.
 
Currently looking at a 2.56 first; 2.99 is an option because I have a lot of RPM to play with.

If the construction is better I can live with that 5lbs. I was looking at the RST line from McLeod - it is good to 800hp/tq; maybe the Street Extreme if they say it will last (http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/clutch-kits/street-extreme/street-extreme-107940.html). I have to determine if a steel or aluminum flywheel is best for my application, need to optimize the Moment of Inertia.

Another clutch option: http://www.turboclutch.com/ but, very costly.

Another point of concern will be getting a two-step/hyperbar/WOT box system installed to build boost on the line and between gears. Older discussion with some options:
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=288931
 
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If you drive it a lot, I vote for the twin disc as well.

I have experience with a 2.66 1st gear, with 3.42rear and 27" tire. It was really tough to drive this car slow. Minimum speed was about 20 km/h. Parking lots and long driveways were awful. BUT----- 0-60(mph) in 1st gear. I used to merge on the highway in 1st and then shift. ~7000rpm.

My buddy currently has the same trans, 2.66 1st gear, with 4.11rear and 26" tire. Its much better, but its still pretty tall. Same complaint as the scenario above.

His autogear Muncie has a "wide ratio", I believe the widest he could get (not sure of the 1st gear, probably 2.99), with 3.08rear and 28" tire, and he can autocross in 1st. Feels about "normal" to me for slow driving too.

Hope that helps. You'll have to do some math to determine an equivalent single gear numerical value but the info is all there.
 
I also have the QT bell housing. One made before QT's hostile takeover.

I run a SPEC clutch and flywheel.
 
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