misc. last minute swap Q's

[3XBrownCutty]

Finallt, no more B.S., we're doing the swap this weekend. A few last minute questions

These are the frame tower mounts I got, I don't think they are from a G, Will they still bolt in?? What holes should they bolt into??

Also What size fuel line do I need to run over to the pass. side since I'm going from buick to olds. Is it ok to run a long braided line?

How do i extend the big power wires to the starter?

Any other wiring stuff I need to know about to go v6 to v8? I can just disconnect the computer harness since I'm not running it right?

Any other little tips would be great! Down to the moment of truth finally!!!

Going off to school the 21'st so I want this done.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

Still can't figure out how to post pics from my album... I feel stupid :lol:

one more thing, What oil should I run. Engine has been completely rebuilt, pistons, cam, crank, the works. 15W30??

 

[G_Body_Enthusiast]

is the engine new new? has it been broken in yet? if not run 5w-30 for the break in, change the oil after the break in, run new oil for a couple hundred miles (200-500 miles), change the oil again...then change every 3K miles as you normally would. i'd go with regular for the break in and whatever you like after that.

no you dont need the computer so you can unplug it. but do make sure you plug in the sensors for the gauges.

you can use a braided line for the fuel or just a rubber hose though a rubber hose should be a temporary fix til you can plumb it proper. i hate rubber hoses but they work ok in a pinch.

to extend the wires to the starter, get longer ones. do not splice them. heavy current goes through that wire and resistance from splicing will reduce amps going to the starter and may melt the entire wire. just go with like zero gauge wires that are longer. you can always go longer, but shorter is never an option so never splice or puts wires in series. it needs to be one continuous wire running from the battery to the starter.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

Ok, where can I get the same style battery connector. Just check the auto parts store?? I guess I just need to temporarily hook it up until I get things settled down.

Yes, new engine never broken in. How do you break an engine in??

Are the sensors part of the engine harness or the computer??

 

[G_Body_Enthusiast]

the leads for the sensors for the gauges are in the wiring harness itself. use masking tape and label them so when you get the new engine in you can locate them and connect them quickly.

and yes you can find the right battery connector at the auto store. just about any competent auto store will have what you need.

to break the engine in start it and run it at 1500-2000 RPM varying the RPM a little through the entire break in.

the one break in i took part in was for 20 minutes i think. i suggest you have a good cooling system because the engine will get HOT. the one i did had the exhaust manifolds glowing red, and that was normal during the break in. if you can run a fan in front of the radiator, like a shop fan, you'll need it unless you have electric fans and i guess those will work but an extra fan in front of the car is recommended.

IF you have no oil pressure, IMMEDIATELY shut it down and try to find out why you dont have pressure. it could be a loose wire, you never know. if need be use a cheap aftermarket gauge just to be safe.

always be ready to shut down the engine. do NOT walk away, when you do bad things happen. watch it like a hawk. you may get some smoking, if the engine has a fresh coat of paint it will really smoke. new headers will smoke and burn the paint right off in 5 minutes flat. fluids spilled may also burn. have a fire extinguisher ready, preferably an ABC all purpose one, a big one if you can get one. or a garden hose and 911 on speed dial cuz ive seen engine bays go up in flames in no time at all. watch fuel lines!

to raise the rpm, use a couple pennies, nickels, etc in the throttle stop. do not adjust the RPM with a screw driver, bad idea. dont use your foot either, not reliable. use 2 pennies and add and take away a 3rd one every few minutes. its an old trick i learned and it makes the RPMs very steady and ensures you dont go below 1500 RPM.

do not start it and let it idle. start it and check all gauges, if they look good raise it to 1500-2000 RPM ASAP and let it stay there for 20 minutes. have a buddy help you watch the engine as you watch the gauges in the car. idling the engine too long could cause a lifter to kill the cam so dont idle for more than a few seconds if you can avoid it.


IF you have to shut the engine down to fix something that is ok, but make sure you finish the remaining time for the break in period. if you shut it down after 15 minutes, give it 5 more anyway. dont assume its down breaking in. my advice comes from a teacher i respect more than any other gearhead on the planet and i take his word as though it were from god. IF you have to shut it down let the engine cool down completely before finishing the break in.


this is what i was taught and what i go by. it worked before, it should work now. like i said, this comes from a guy i trust with my engines more than anyone else besides engine specialists so i follow his instructions to the letter.

and before starting the engine, double check and then triple check all connections, fluids, nuts bolts widgets, etc. last thing you want is a 5 dollar part ruining your engine so make sure everything is good before attempting to fire the engine.

and if you can, prime the engine for oil before you start it. that way you know the pump works, etc.

 

[Blake442]

Absolutely prime the engine prior to firing it. A dry start can kill your crank and rod bearings. Not worth it for how easy it is to do. All you need is a 5/16" socket I believe, an extention, and a preferrably cordless reversible drill. Run it counter-clockwise until you see oil come out the rocker arms. This is also a good chance to make sure that oil pressure gauge you hooked up works. Which leads me too...

Definately get an oil pressure gauge on the engine to watch during the break-in process, as well as one of those lazer thermometers if you can. Worth it's weight in gold to make sure your new engine doesn't overheat. Another good idea is to put a box fan in front of the car to help move some air through the radiator. This will also help it from getting too hot. If it does start to get hot, don't freak out, but you may need to shut it down. New engines always run hot, due to how new and tight all the tollerances are between the parts. As it breaks in, it 'loosens up' if you will...

Fuel line is 3/8". I jerry-rigged a 48" piece of hard line and flared the ends to help it seal safely on the rubber hose coming across from the driverside to the fuel pump on the passenger side for my wagon. I'm certainly not proud of it, but it works until I can do it right. Just make sure it doesn't rub on your steering components, and secure it so it can't get loose and rub on your steering... Gas leak + hot engine = 🙁

You can get a new battery cable at the parts store. Get a rough idea of how long of one you'll need by snaking out a tape measure in the path that you'll be running the wire.

You can eliminate every single wire that goes to and from the computer. I did this when I had my dash apart for my non a/c swap, and I followed each and every wire to make sure it didn't go to something I needed. The connections you need to keep are all contained on the engine harness that comes out the driver side. All the stuff that comes out the passenger side can be eliminated.

Those frame mounts you have are early A-body mounts, not the G-body mount. You may have to drill some new upper holes to use them. You can probably use the lower hole, but the uppers may not line up with anything.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

wow, tons of great info there guys!! Thanks a million!

My fuel pump has two inlets and I figured out I only need one after looking at the 3.8. can I just plug off the other one for now until I can fix it right??

Just got back from the parts store. 55" battery cable, tubing, belts, oil, and rented a pulley puller. hopefully I can get some little things done tonight before tomorrow.

 

[Blake442]

I'm not a huge fan of plugging the fuel pump return outlets, though I have heard of plenty of people that have gotten away with it. I did it myself when I first fired up the SBC in my wagon, but switched to a pump without a return the next day.

 

[G_Body_Enthusiast]

yeah last thing you want is a plug popping out and losing tons of gas let alone the chance of a fire destroying the entire car.

fuel pumps arent that much, get one without returns.

 

[v8power]

for brake in i run shell rotella oil. lots of good detergents in it. good luck. make sure to keep a eye on oil psi, water temp. ect. also keep a eye out for leaks. when everything cools down, re-tighten your header bolts. they will come loose.