MORE PROBLEMS WITH MY NEW HOLLEY SETUP

Status
Not open for further replies.
one: the statement wasn't directed at you specifically
two: how come my problems went away when i got rid of the q-jet and went to a holley?
three: so you're saying that a car that stumble, has hard starting, and blows black smoke out the exhaust can be fixed by an edelbrock carb? couldn't be anything else?
how about a car that stubles at idle but once you raise the RPM's everything is fine?
the first one is from a car i worked on that had 100k miles and she had NEVER changed the spark plugs! i don't know how it ran, the plugs were GONE.
the second example is a classic vacuum leak.
neither one will be helped by a new carb of any type.
 
vac/mechanical advance or stock electronic advance style carb?
what engine/mods?

if it's stock then pull the timing back to 4*BTDC and see if it makes a change.
 
im not saying that there are no good holleys out there. just that they are a pain to adjust! edelbrocks are easy, affordable and parts are about as common as small block chevy parts. makes me wonder why i ever considered holley....
 
i was just stating my opinion that Holleys are overrated that's all.....no disrespect but i just didn't have any luck with 3 of the Holley's that i had ...and they were all brand new.
 
i'm not defending holley. but people seem to assum that various problems are always fixed by the carb instead of properly diagnosing and fixing the small stuff.
i own a holley because it was the best deal, that's it. i have no preferences for any brand of carb.
 
not to hijack this post but i am a huge holly fan, and when tuned properly will great! any way. what i would do is pick up the holly book, they will tell you tell you everything you need to know, from rebuilds to tuning. but do not look over anything and make sure everything is doing what it is supposed to be doing before you single one thing out.
 
ive got the vac/mech. advance on it. just got it runnin decent again with the edelbrock q jet, definatly not a carb issue though, cause it still has no power and is fairly none respsive. when i had the valve covers off the the valve train looked to be well oiled and in working order, the ignition system very well could be the culprit as the plugs fdont llok that great, and the wires look like there 20 years old now that i look at them and ive only had a few monthes, the coil literally fell apart when i went to take it out and try a different one. so hers exactly whats going on.from start up to driving to shut down. car starts idles decent but seams alittle rough, and nothe kinda rough from the cam i have, put it in to gear it lags hard but moves, get goin down the road, it wants to move and respond quick but lags then runs hard for a seconed then lags again and repeats the process through the rpm range, park it again, let it idle still idles rough, shut it down. did i time it incorrectly?could it be valve train breakage somewheres? could i really need to do the ignition up? should i just start goin through replacin a bunch of stuff, or am i overlooking somthing small?
thanks to all that are helpin me out.by the way i have had a factory q jet on my elcamino and i hated it,i had an edelbrock 600 on this car at one point, when it was runnin real good with a 283, but it wasnt as responsive as id like it to be so i figured id try a holley,with me i dont have a preference, as i like to try new things cause theres no set in stone universal performance formula that works for every persons vehicle
 
i am assuming that you replaced the coil and it's still crappy? i'd pull the plugs and clean and regap them. i'd also run the car at night to check for arcing from the wires. haved you verified that the advance is working? the easy way is to rev the engine while using the timing light, the marks will "move". do you have a good solid vacuum line to the distributor and is it off the right port on the carb?
 
also pull each wire one at a time, USE RUBBER OR THICK LEATHER GLOVES 40,000volts can hurt, you should have a decent drop in RPM but the important thing is that all cylinders drop evenly. pull the cap off and look for carbon deposits and streaking at the contacs and the rotor.
if everything checks out, and if you only have a small but even drop in rpm when pulling wires, replace the ignition module.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor