OK, but you really should get a service manual for the car. Lots of good info and proceedures inside. So, on the front of the carb, at the bottom, are two idle adjustment screws. A ccc carb should be the double "D" type which require a double "D" tool. What you do first is use a tachometer hooked up to the "tach" plug on the distributor to see if the car is at the proper RPM,which is on the emissions sticker on the fan shroud. If there is not a computer controlled idle solenoid then you adjust RPM by a screw on the driver's side of the carb that the throttle linkage rests on. Then you hook up a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source like the one on the carb the air cleaner uses. Then you use the double "D" tool to adjust the idle mixture screws out then in, one at a time,watching the gauge, until you get the highest vacuum reading. Screwing it in too far should cause the motor to slow down and run rough, then quit. Vacuum will drop very low. Do this as many times as it takes to get a good smooth idle. Adjust them to get a high vacuum reading, 20" is ideal. If this changes the idle RPM then you go back to the idle speed screw to adjust it again. What you are trying to do is get the highest possible vacuum reading while staying at the factory specified RPMs. If you find raising the RPM a bit really helps your idle quality, then go ahead and raise it, but not a lot. All this assumes the carb has been worked on at some point and the screws are accessible. If not, and the idle screws are covered with tamper-proof plugs the only way to unplug them is to remove the carb and drive them out. The manual will explain how. I used to think this would cause the computer to go nuts, but actually the computer will adjust to the new settings, if not too drastic. If none of this works then a carb rebuild is in order, and the ccc ones are expensive to get done right. Again, do the easy stuff first-carb last. Hope this helps.