I will try to post some photos later today or tomorrow. Its factory color is that chocolate brown so its hard to tell how much rust there truly is. It isn't really rusted out but does have a lot of surface rust.
Need Guidance
- Thread starter Jeremy Davis
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I will try to post some photos later today or tomorrow. Its factory color is that chocolate brown so its hard to tell how much rust there truly is. It isn't really rusted out but does have a lot of surface rust.
Greetings Jeremy & all; My $.03 cents. I would start by looking everywhere including the Internet for a 83 Q-Jet. Amusing that the car did have a 4V (barrel) carb from the factory? This will make your life much easer as it will have jets, rods, rod spring & internal tune that may be close to OE (Original Equipment) spec. of your engine? If you prefer look for a re-manufactured unit for a early- mid 70's 307 Olds, 305 Chevy or 301 Pontiac. The reason I suggest this path is any changes you make in the future will require changes to the carb. And this vintage Q-Jet carb will allow you to do those chances with relative ease. A cheap Edelbrock- AFB is less suitable & a Holley this point in time wouldn't suite your needs. A couple of tips, Holley's are the oldest & newest design and are best suited for wide open throttle delivering equal or near equal flow to all cylinders ( max Performance). AFB - Edelbrock's are the next oldest design & the secondary's are a pain in the A_s to tune. Later more expensive Edelbrock's were modernized some & lend themselves to tuning the secondary. If ya thing about the history Q-Jets they are just a more modern AFB & most from the late 60's to about 1976 are easer to adjust & tune to any engine cam combo. Holley's are the easiest to tune & adjust & of course come in many different sizes. The down side of the Holley is they don't use as many different metering points at off idle & light cruse, hence they generally won't get as good of fuel mileage. As custom fine tuning is best done by messing with the "Main Power bleeds", the "Idle feed restrictors" & "Idle air bleeds" Of course you can ruin Holley in a blink if you drill the fixed bleeds. That's why you see so many Holley's with adjustable bleeds now days. It's possible to dial one in to work nearly as well as fuel injection?? Hope I helped, Ole' Bob
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This article should help. It is a step-by-step guide of things to check, presented in a logical order. It is full of good advice that is worth following.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-fire-an-engine-thats-been-in-storage/
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-fire-an-engine-thats-been-in-storage/
Welcome aboard Jeremy!
A lot of good advice. For starters, get yourself a repair manual to be able to familiarize yourself with the workings of your car.
You've come to a good site for information on your ride. Most guys are more than willing to help get your car back on the road to recovery.
Thank you for your introduction.
A lot of good advice. For starters, get yourself a repair manual to be able to familiarize yourself with the workings of your car.
You've come to a good site for information on your ride. Most guys are more than willing to help get your car back on the road to recovery.
Thank you for your introduction.
Welcome aboard Jeremy!
A lot of good advice. Get yourself a repair manual to be able to familiarize yourself with the workings of your car.
You've come to a good site for information on your ride. Most guys are more than willing to help get your car back on the road to recovery.
Thank you for your introduction.
A lot of good advice. Get yourself a repair manual to be able to familiarize yourself with the workings of your car.
You've come to a good site for information on your ride. Most guys are more than willing to help get your car back on the road to recovery.
Thank you for your introduction.
Thank you for taking the time to give me all that information. It's fairly streamlined and resourceful.
I just read over it, this will most likely be my in hand guide. Thanks for helping me get a grasp on an agenda for the car.
10lb or 2 5lb extinguishers handy and ready for initial crankup - TRUST ME.
There is a bunch of good advice here, so I'll offer up mine - lol. Evacuate the gas tank via siphon. Add 5-10 gallons of fresh gas. Unhook the coil/ignition. Install fresh/charged battery and crank it over and see how it sounds. Crank long enough to see if the idiot light for oil pressure goes out or oil pressure gauge needle moves. Hookup ignition and see what gives. Poor some (small amount) of gas in carb to see if it will fire - lather rinse and repeat until spits to a start.
Two people make this a much safer and quicker process remembering to keep one guy nearby a fire killing implement (extinguisher).
Maybe you already posted it and I missed it, but where are you located? I do understand sentimental value, but be realistic with performance goals of this 307. I'm truly sorry to hear about your Grandfather, it sounds like you were close - as it should be. Get it running, driving and cruising.
There is a bunch of good advice here, so I'll offer up mine - lol. Evacuate the gas tank via siphon. Add 5-10 gallons of fresh gas. Unhook the coil/ignition. Install fresh/charged battery and crank it over and see how it sounds. Crank long enough to see if the idiot light for oil pressure goes out or oil pressure gauge needle moves. Hookup ignition and see what gives. Poor some (small amount) of gas in carb to see if it will fire - lather rinse and repeat until spits to a start.
Two people make this a much safer and quicker process remembering to keep one guy nearby a fire killing implement (extinguisher).
Maybe you already posted it and I missed it, but where are you located? I do understand sentimental value, but be realistic with performance goals of this 307. I'm truly sorry to hear about your Grandfather, it sounds like you were close - as it should be. Get it running, driving and cruising.
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