Need second opinion from the experts!!

[bonesninja]

So I took my 86 Cutlass Salon to the mechanic's yesterday because its been running really rough since the cold weather started in. Car/motor has 82k on the 307 and the previous owner removed the A.I.R./smog stuff. So after the mechanic looked it over, he determined that I probably have a few vaccuum leaks and he noticed that the choke wasn't functioning properly and that someone took a piece of wood and jammed it in the linkage on the passenger side of the carb to hold it open all the time. He recommended that I replace/rebuild the carb, replace all the vaccuum lines and re-install all new smog componants. He admitted that he isn't an expert on older cars but was convinced that this would solve my rough starting/idling and bogging down under aggressive acceleration.

Would anyone else concur with this diagnosis?

BTW, the previous owner didn't remove the AIR tubes from the motor, just cut them and TIG'd them closed. He probably couldn't get them out

 

[mugzi]

for one dont add any smog nothing...yes u do wanna change the carb..for one that will help out alot..vacumm leaks are real simple...now with the carb i'll go wit either a edel brock or holley

 

[breeaad]

Personally I wouldn't rebuild or replace the carb because you have vacuum leaks and a piece of wood jammed in the choke. I would remove the wood, adjust the pull-off, and replace the vacuum lines. I would recommend replacing all the lines if a few have dry rotted and cracked. Replace one at a time and be sure to route them correctly. If your car ran good during warm weather, then the choke will most likely straighten everyting out. The smog stuff doesn't really rob that much power, but some people like the look of all that stuff removed. Personally, I have kept all my stuff on and functional. If I wanted it to look like a 60's muscle car under the hood, I would buy a 60's muscle car.

 

[mugzi]

but if the used a stick to keep the choke open doesnt that mean something is wrong wit it... an as for the smog stuff..doesnt take power away from the motor...cause it seem to give my motor a lil more not a lot but it helpd....an it also made it alot easier to move around under the hood

 

[billyjack]

Personally, I'd get the vacuum line problem resolved, then do the whole choke setup right, making sure vacuum breaks are functioning and all choke system adjustments are within spec. After all that is complete, then go drive it to see if there are any other symptoms that need attention. No offense to your mechanic, but carburetors are as foreign to the younger guys as electronic injection is to those of us who are AARP eligible. If it has been done right, removing the AIR system won't hurt a damn thing. It's only purpose was to induce fresh air into the exhaust to help burn any excess fuel and reduce emissions.
Bill

 

[megaladon6]

IDk if you need to deal with emissions, but legally the mechanic has to tell you that you should replace the smog crap. but i'd go with his recommendations, they sound good. rebuild the carb, q-jets are great units and they can be adjusted to work on everything from 3L-7L engines. since you haven't done performance work you can just get the $20 rebuild kit, just make sure to also get a float as some kits don't have them. if the vac lines are dried out anywhere, just replace them all.

 

[bonesninja]

took the stick out and didn't get 100 yards before the motor started sputtering like crazy...put the stick and it drives fine under grandma type acceleration. Still bogs way down, almost to the stall point, under somewhat aggressive acceleration

 

[mugzi]

the carb is the heart of the motor...without that it useless...

 

[joe_padavano]

Unless you have lots of spare cash (in which case mail it to me), try diagnosing the problem BEFORE throwing parts at the car. Unfortunately most "mechanics" are just parts replacers and couldn't diagnose a problem to save their lives. Since you are paying for the new parts, not the mechanic, as some point you will have replaced enough parts to fix the problem.

The 307 has about 8.73 miles of vacuum hose. Replace anything that looks at all questionable. Also, since the A.I.R. has been removed, verify that the remaining hoses were correctly plugged. Once the vacuum lines are repaired, then diagnose the choke problem. The choke system is not complicated. There is the bimetallic spring under the round black cover and the vacuum pulloffs. Test the pulloffs with a vacuum pump, adjust (or if bad, replace) the choke coil, and adjust the choke per the factory process. A brand new carb will likely need these adjustments anyway, so why spend the money?

 

[Bonnewagon]

An 86' has an electric choke. Is it opening up? Sounds like the stick was jammed in there to keep the flap open probably because the electric choke coil is broken or not getting juice. That little grey clip that attaches to the choke is famous for breaking, not making good contact, and the male end on the choke housing rusts badly, it should be sanded clean. Once you verify the choke closes when cold, and opens quickly when the motor starts. You can even test it by turning on the ignition without starting the motor, and as the coil heats up, watch the flap open. If all is well, then attack the other issues.