negative wire to trigger door pin input on alarm

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Silent viewer

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May 9, 2007
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i am trying to get my door pin input wired into my alarm and cant seem to get the right wire. does anyone know what wire and location for the correct one? :?
 
You may have to use a relay to trip it because the pin switches are the positive side of the circuit on a GM car if I am not mistaken.
 
i have wired a dozen gm alarms, mainly g bodies and never ran into needing a relay for a door pin. i have not done one in a few years which is why i can not seem to figure out what wire it should be, i thought i had the right one :?
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
You may have to use a relay to trip it because the pin switches are the positive side of the circuit on a GM car if I am not mistaken.

You are mistaken. The body that screws into the door post is the ground path. When you open the door, the single wire is connected to ground through the screw threads.
 
joe_padavano said:
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
You may have to use a relay to trip it because the pin switches are the positive side of the circuit on a GM car if I am not mistaken.

You are mistaken. The body that screws into the door post is the ground path. When you open the door, the single wire is connected to ground through the screw threads.

Yes, it is ground.
 
dan2286 said:
joe_padavano said:
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
You may have to use a relay to trip it because the pin switches are the positive side of the circuit on a GM car if I am not mistaken.

You are mistaken. The body that screws into the door post is the ground path. When you open the door, the single wire is connected to ground through the screw threads.

Yes, it is ground.

it is the ground but every alarm I have installed had a different color wire for the door pin depending on whether the door pin was + or a ground so there is never a need for a relay...
 
Mine has 2 wires on the pin switch, not one. Plus, the body is insulated from the switch, which I have already found odd. Also, when I removed it, the switch shorted and sparked when it touched. Maybe mine is an oddball. I took it all apart for the paint job so that I would not get overspray on the switch when I paint the jambs.
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
Mine has 2 wires on the pin switch, not one. Plus, the body is insulated from the switch, which I have already found odd. Also, when I removed it, the switch shorted and sparked when it touched. Maybe mine is an oddball. I took it all apart for the paint job so that I would not get overspray on the switch when I paint the jambs.

if the pin has two wires then one wire going to the other pin....check and you'll see the other pin has one wire....the door pins are insulated so when the pin is pushed in by the door the pin won't be grounded........the spark you see is just the arcing of the current that is live but that doesn't mean it's a positive current......take the negative post off your battery it'll spark when it's a loose connection....same thing
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
Mine has 2 wires on the pin switch, not one. Plus, the body is insulated from the switch, which I have already found odd. Also, when I removed it, the switch shorted and sparked when it touched. Maybe mine is an oddball. I took it all apart for the paint job so that I would not get overspray on the switch when I paint the jambs.

I'm looking at my 1986 Chassis Service Manual as I write this and ALL the door jamb switches are switching ground, not power. Some of the switches have multiple wires (each one grounds separately) but all of them are switched to ground, not power. For example, the driver's door switch will have two wires. One (white) is the ground for the dome light. The other wire (tan) is the ground for the key in the ignition buzzer.
 
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