New aftermarket Cutlass Supreme Quarter Patch Panels
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Gbodyparts put a squashing on that one. He would have to license them and buy them. So if you feel confident i would share with them over email a request for the product.
tobyp said:
There wasn't a squash on it. We just felt for pricing we could keep it domestic. No sense in Building a hood ornament for a Cowl hood that isn't completed yet. 4 more days until pics of the cutlass cowl hood 😉
I have a set of drivers side front and rear patch panels going onto my 86 442. very quality pieces!! I am debating welding or adhesive right now. i just wanted to say that they look to be spot on and they are thick metal like factory, not some flimsy crap that I have seen on some panels in the past
The only think I am worried about with welding is warping the metal. I replaced the rockers in my regal and have done minor patches that came out great but I warped some metal when I shaved my door handles so it worries me doing that to these panels. I have learned a bit since then but I also have not welded anything in the last few years. more than likely I will weld them but I need to practice and regain my confidence first
Understand.
Here was my process. No kidding either.
I drink a few on Fri or Sat night and play some tunes. No one is allowed in the garage. The old metal is cut out. Then the old metal is laid onto the new patch. I clamp them together. This gives me a perfect trace and pattern. I cut the panel and use the old piece as a straight edge, perse. Clamps, clamps, clamps to the body. I have even used self tapping screws at the bottom lip to keep it held into place. You MUST stitch weld. You must use more PSI of shielding gas. You MUST use .023 size wire, You need to take about an hour to weld across a good stretch of metal. Stitch weld 1 second or less at a time in the middle. Then stitch at the end, then the other end. Then in the middle of the 1st weld and the end weld, then do the same on the opposite side. Take a break, drink beer. You continue to stitch in the centers of your areas until there is no cut area left. THe problem you will encounter is wanting to rush as the stitches get closer.....and you think.....I just need to weld a couple here, there and thats it.....then it warps. Drink more beer......weld, more beer, weld. Same goes when grinding down the welds to be smooth as well.....beer, sand, beer, sand..... p.s. Use a flap wheel....easier than grinding wheels.
Here was my process. No kidding either.
I drink a few on Fri or Sat night and play some tunes. No one is allowed in the garage. The old metal is cut out. Then the old metal is laid onto the new patch. I clamp them together. This gives me a perfect trace and pattern. I cut the panel and use the old piece as a straight edge, perse. Clamps, clamps, clamps to the body. I have even used self tapping screws at the bottom lip to keep it held into place. You MUST stitch weld. You must use more PSI of shielding gas. You MUST use .023 size wire, You need to take about an hour to weld across a good stretch of metal. Stitch weld 1 second or less at a time in the middle. Then stitch at the end, then the other end. Then in the middle of the 1st weld and the end weld, then do the same on the opposite side. Take a break, drink beer. You continue to stitch in the centers of your areas until there is no cut area left. THe problem you will encounter is wanting to rush as the stitches get closer.....and you think.....I just need to weld a couple here, there and thats it.....then it warps. Drink more beer......weld, more beer, weld. Same goes when grinding down the welds to be smooth as well.....beer, sand, beer, sand..... p.s. Use a flap wheel....easier than grinding wheels.
I appreciate that advise! I agree on the flap discs, I rarely touch a body with a grinding disc. Im hoping to get to this in the next couple of weeks, I am putting my motor together right now, 350 ram jet with a holley stealth ram on top of it .
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