As stated before, break the restomodification down into workable chunks. Most people would tell you focus on money. I take a different tact. How long will each chunk leave the car dead in the driveway? The longer it sits in everybody's way (and under the watch of the neighbor hood ******* who has the zoning commission on speed dial), the more likely you will pour money and time into a project you'll abandon later, with regret. Don't make the mistake I did and alienate your wife. With luck, she could be persuaded to share your vision, help out, and enjoy the fruits of your labor. And above all, get the car reliably drivable before kids happen. Time and money and support disappear at that point...
Before fixing up the mechanicals, how much body work will be involved? Is the frame rotten? Primer does not hold up long in the sun.
You already have a motor swap done. If it's running OK, then stand back a minute and think about the big picture. One of the last things enthusiastic newbies consider is the transmission. Usually the transmission grenades when you attempt to reuse an old used up one behind a freshly built stout motor. What transmission you will use will be decided by your goals. For a car that will spend most of the time burning gas taking you to destinations, consider a 700-R4 and a 3.08 ring and pinion. These transmissions can be had for $1500 or less, and have a deep first gear to accelerate pickups and
Caprice but retain good gas mileage with a 0.70 overdrive. Choose a 1988-1991 production year - strongest internals, and can be run without a computer. With a 26" stock diameter rear tire, this is a really nice combination for general driving. Pairing a 700-R4 with 3.42, 3.73, or 4.10 is OK if you are drag racing, but you'll spin the motor too fast and you'll regret sacrificing mileage for the other 99% of the time. Plus, small block Chevys tend to have an annoying drone at about 2200 RPM, so for long-range trips, try to shoot for 2000 RPM or slightly less. Modern GM V8 cars are typically set up to run in the 1600-1800 RPM range at highway speeds. The next transmission choice down the line is a 200-4R, but they are becoming harder to find, and you need a builder that knows what they are doing. This trans is better choice is you will go to steeper first gears, as it has the same first ratio as a TH350, but a 0.67 overdrive. Rear ratios for this transmission would be 3.23 - 3.73. If you fancy a manual transmission, you have a lot or work ahead of you making this conversion, so I'll wait to hear if you ask more about this path. Either transmission choice in your 82 MC is going to require modifications to the crossmember and driveshaft. If you live outside of emissions land, you can consider an aftermarket dual-hump 'member from Jegs or Summit, or weld up your own. the TH350 mounts you have in your car will need an extension plate or frame rail extended to fit the 200-4R, but the Jegs 700-R4 'member bolted right into my 1980 Malibu. If you motor is running reliably, have everything ready, drop the trans and scrape, clean and paint the center underside of the car, then bolt in the trans. If you planned ahead, your car won't be on jackstands for weeks. Your stock 82 MC driveshat with TH350/TH250 needs about 3" taken out to fit a 700-R4 or 200-4R. With luck you have a driveshaft shop somewhere handy. Get new U-joints, and have the antique balanced. This is adequate for up to 300 HP, beyond that, get a stronger brand new one fabricated.
Steering and front suspension are also neglected areas. There are about $400 worth of ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, etc. involved. Find a Monte SS steering box with the 12.7/2.5 turns lock-to-lock for a snappier response. This swap requires a Pitman arm from a similar 800-series steering box from a G-body. When you look down at it, the one you want has a square top with four bolts on the perimeter. If you retained your 82 power steering pump on the Camaro motor, then you have the right hose ends in place (have an O-ring at the end).
Rear control arm bushings are another simple improvement, but a shop press is the best way to make this work fast. I cut a piece of 1-1/2" angle iron to fit between the sheetmetal sides of the factory arms, so it didn't collapse when I pressed them out/in. If you will be changing out rear gears, consider getting a second set of control arms and have them all ready to go when you R&R the axle. Same deal with the axle. Consider having another one painted up and ready with the desired gears and positraction. Plan to budget up to $1500 for all this.
I could blather on for hours, but I'll wait for more questions from you first.
