New here from Cincinnati

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yep you need a fan shroud for sure. one out of any 78-88 cutlass regal grand prix monte that came with a v8, etc will work fine.

You could run 10w-40, that's what i'd use. I'm a halvoline guy.
 
synoptic12 said:
86Olds307 said:
Thanks guys. Heres a pic. Im putting the stock wire hub caps on it today just havent got around to it. I don't plan on doing anything to the motor except tune up and maybe a few small things. So far I've only changed the air filter and detailed her inside and out. One of the first things I wanted to do was install duals. Not true duals but one in/two out muffler. Is there anything I can do with the emissions to get duals or will I lose all my back pressure/ run like crap? One thing that worries me about it is I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and coolant gauge, and at idle it says I'm only at 5-7 psi. Seems kind of low to me but there is also a small oil leak thats drips off the oil filter I don't know if that would affect it or maybe a clogged oil filter? There are no ticks or knocks runs smooth and quiet. It has 10w-30 oil in it that looks like it needs changed so ill be doing that this weekend. Any preferences on oil weight and brand? Another thing is after driving for awhile it seems to get a little hot around 215 degrees so I have to kick the heat on, I'm guessing because its missing the fan shroud? Theres no coolant leaks or coolant in the oil. If you guys have any suggestions on where to start I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

Don't try two into one duals. The backpressure is a significant issue, which will increase heat. It does not matter whether 2 into 1, or running straight pipes. 10w-30 is the oil Penzoil or Extra Milage Valvoline, Castrol is good, and Quaker State, which many people overlook. Don't change the weight. It was formulated for that motor. Unless you live in an extreme climate: hot or cold, use 10w-30. It appears you live in Ohio, so use the 10w-30. While you are at it, change the transmission fluid and filter. Perform a compression test to see how each cylinder is performing. It takes about thirty minutes. Do it yourself. All Oldsmobile's "run hot". I've owned many. You refer to a 'fan shroud', I believe that you are referring to the "clutch fan". Without this, your motor will run hot. Change the thermostat, and make sure it is the correct temperature. I believe that it is 195°. * Check the "air tubes" for leaks: part of emission cotrol; bolt on to the manifold.
It gets very hot in southern ohio in the summer time..10w30 is a lil thin for 90 + degree summer temps. I live in southern indiana and it was 94 degrees today!! 10w-40 would be my choice
 
Thanks for the replies. It had the clutch fan on it when I bought it but no plastic surround to keep the air at the radiator. I put that piece on, runs about 210 degrees after a half hour of driving in 90 degree weather. I forgot to mention it also has an electric fan wired up on the front of the radiator on a toggle switch. I went ahead and used Castrol GTX high mileage that usually what I put in all my vehicles. Since changing the oil filter haven't noticed any leaks so hopefully that is all good. I'm going to change the transmission fluid and filter this week just so I'm on top of all my fluids. I have an extra 195 degree thermostat, as long as 210 is ok for it be be running ill use that but if not do you rthink a 180 will be ok? And I was thinking about possibly flushing my radiator.
 
86Olds307 said:
Thanks for the replies. It had the clutch fan on it when I bought it but no plastic surround to keep the air at the radiator. I put that piece on, runs about 210 degrees after a half hour of driving in 90 degree weather. I forgot to mention it also has an electric fan wired up on the front of the radiator on a toggle switch. I went ahead and used Castrol GTX high mileage that usually what I put in all my vehicles. Since changing the oil filter haven't noticed any leaks so hopefully that is all good. I'm going to change the transmission fluid and filter this week just so I'm on top of all my fluids. I have an extra 195 degree thermostat, as long as 210 is ok for it be be running ill use that but if not do you rthink a 180 will be ok? And I was thinking about possibly flushing my radiator.
the shroud is on now? make sure the elect fans are running properly..some have adjustments on them. 210 is a lil warm IMO. flushing the raditator and replacing the t-stat is a good idea. you can run either t-stat you want. 195 is what they came with, but I always ran 180 in all my stuff other than late models. its just matter of opinion.
 
Alright well yesterday while driving themp got up to 225, so I just went ahead and took the thermostat out all together since its summer an dont need heat at the moment. Drove it about 15 minutes and it still got up to 210. When I'm on the gas it goes up when I let off and coast it starts going down, I guess now im just going to flush the radiator and hope that works. I wish I could tell if this gauge was even accurate.
 
86Olds307 said:
Alright well yesterday while driving themp got up to 225, so I just went ahead and took the thermostat out all together since its summer an dont need heat at the moment. Drove it about 15 minutes and it still got up to 210. When I'm on the gas it goes up when I let off and coast it starts going down, I guess now im just going to flush the radiator and hope that works. I wish I could tell if this gauge was even accurate.


I live in Cincinnati and have a v8 shroud you are needing and a new temp gauge(s) if you want them.

Give me a pm
 
Yesterday I flushed the whole cooling syslem. Radiator, block, heater core and reservoir tank. The previous owner put stop leak in the radiator :x So much stuff came out its not even funny. Refilled with 50/50. She is running cooler for longer but still gets between 200-215 when on the gas when its 90+ outside after driving awhile. When the radiator cap is removed I can still see build up on the ports inside. Looks like I have to buy a radiator to see if that helps. The one thing I don't get though is when I'm on the gas temp goes up but if I'm sitting still or coasting it goes back down. Anyone have any idea why that is? Higher rpm's not enough flow?
 
Oil pressure is fixed for now. It was around 5 psi idling while hot, I did some research online and alot of people said they switched to a thicker oil to improve pressure. So did away with the 10w30 and got some Rotella 15w40, now its between 10 and 14 psi hot while idling and the needle on my mechanical gauge moves smoothly with acceleration instead of jumping up. Runs smoother and feels a little stronger. Hopefully it's not just a band-aid for worn bearings, cam lobes, or oil pump.
 
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