new motor build or crate motor

[565bbchevy]

I think one of the biggest issues when attempting to do your own assembly is finding a machine shop that does quality work at a fair price and also does what you ask them to do. (get it in writing)
I am on my fourth machine shop and have been using this one for about 13 years and though I only have them bore and hone my block and do balancing for the rotating assembly I would trust them to do anything. (my buddy just had them rebuild his 598BBC for his Nova and it runs great)
I have only been on this forum for about 2 years and in that time I have seen many guys attempt to build there first engine typically a SBC and end up having all kinds of issues or complete failure after investing all that time and money mainly because of lack of knowledge and not following proper procedures and also lack of proper tools.
I have seen many drop right out of this hobby after taking a big hit to their pocketbook and ego and you never hear from them again.
So I guess what it comes down to is even though it is great being able to say you assembled your own engine you might be better off either buying a complete engine from a reputable shop or higher end crate engine.

 

[MightyCarlo86]

Agreed, there is some very good advice. I really wanted to build my own but lack of space and having none of the tools is a problem not to mention finding a good reputable machine shop. The ZZ crate engines from my own experience ( Have a ZZ4 350 in my Monte) and everything Ive heard are a very good, well built and reliable engine that puts out a decent amount of horsepower and torque. It is a little pricey but if you're looking to go the route of a crate engine those are my favorite so far.

 

[rboogie23]

Yea true I would love to learn how to do with the right time, space, and tools... and getting a book on rebuilding an engine sound alike a good idea.... I think Ian go with a crate motor and get a 350 on the side to work on.... what would be a good site to buy a good crate motor

 

[MightyCarlo86]

Summit Racing and Jegs are the two best that I am aware of.

 

[rboogie23]

Do u think 400 turbo transmission will hold up a 500hp 383

 

[pontiacgp]

easily, stock turbo 400 will handle about 500 lbs of torque

 

[Bar50]

A TH400 with a 32 element sprag and a good shift kit is solid to almost 700 horsepower.

I tend to agree with everyone, if you don't have or have access to the specialty tools...and you have the funding, the crate motor is an awesome way to go. Catch Jeg's or Summit just right and its free shipping on crate engines!

I would go with the 383 over the 350 for sure.

Plan for good long tube headers and a dual exhaust crossmember too!

 

[YGspider]

Go with a crate 350 from GM... It will do you fine. All you need is 290 horse to beat Hondas anway.

 

[ssn696]

If your wallet currently contains only enthusiasm, do this in stages. Take it from an old fart, learn in steps. Spend the money as it comes. Just get the car where you want it before you make babies. My hobby is still in park.

Here is an excellent place to start: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283. This is a stock replacement Chevy 'R' truck motor. Vortec heads, roller cam, one-piece rear main seal, all new tin and a new balancer. I think it also has hypereutectic pistons, but it may not have the fuel pump pad drilled. You will already have the best budget iron heads GM offered. The 1.94 valves make decent low-RPM torque. You can redo the heads later to add bigger springs for bigger cams. The LT4 'Hot' cam slips right in with a valve spring change. You'll need a Vortec intake manifold, but you should be able to use regular Chevy 350 exhaust manifolds until you can add headers later. You'll need a flexplate that matches the one-piece crank bolt pattern. If you have a current 305 or 350, all the accessories and starter should bolt on. Get new motor mounts, an Edelbrock 1406 carburetor and a new/rebuilt mechanical HEI distributor. Moving aft, I'd buy or rebuild a 700-R4. The 3.06:1 first gear lets you keep your 2-series rear axle initially and still launch the 3500-lb bomb. There are lockup kits to make one work without a computer, and you'll appreciate the overdrive gear when you keep finding yourself at the gas pump. Try to find an 87-90 core (Camaro/Firebird/Suburban) with a mechanical speedo sender. Summit and Jeg's sell rebuilt ones. If you can afford dual exhaust, and don't have emission laws, get the Jeg's G-body dual kit: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+ ... 1/10002/-1 This one includes a special crossmember set up for the 700-R4 trans mount.

This prescription is around $4200 all together. Later you can go hog-wild with upgrades as your wallet expands.

This is how I would have done it if I could go back and have a chat with my noobie self. My car has spent far too much time on jackstands in the past 14 years. If you're not driving it, you're not enjoying it.

ssn696

 

[ssn696]

Another thought, YGspider. If I decode your handle, you already have the Y307, so you may have the 200-4R behind it. If it is a dual-pattern case, you can bolt the trans and torque converter to a Chevy motor with no changes. This trans has a higher OD (0.67 vs. 0.70) and has a TH350-like first gear. Great for rear gears 3.08 to 3.73. That's what I used in my wagon for years behind a SBC400. Just needed a shift kit and lockup kit, same as in a 700R4.

: )

ssn696