just started geting the parts and ordering stuff this weekend. what u all think so far. anyone have any tips or advice
new pics of my freshly started build
- Thread starter chstonebraker
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Its hard to give advise or tips when we don't know what your building.
Just sayin....
Orther than that keep the engine clean, always double check, and don't rush it or you'll F it up.
Just sayin....
Orther than that keep the engine clean, always double check, and don't rush it or you'll F it up.
Yes, definitely do not rush and don't be afraid to go back and redo something cause its not right or you just don't feel it's right. When assembling the short block, make sure you can turn the crank several times during the procedure and definitely before bolting on the pan. Just from my experience, it sucks pretty hard when you have all the lifters and the heads almost on and realize the crank doesn't freely turn. Clean, clean, clean also. I'd use a little bit of RTV at the corners of the pan where the end seals meet the pan rail. Did I mention make sure everything is clean? Also, make sure to use quality fasteners and preferably assembly lube and not oil although that can be argued either way. Check how far down or out of the hole your pistons end up sitting and choose a head gasket with appropriate compressed thickness corresponding to around .035-0.40" clearance between cylinder head and piston top for a more efficient chamber.
Good luck and have fun.
Good luck and have fun.
what it is: early 70s 350 four bolt hi nickle block bored 30 over.
parts reusing: steel crank stock rods in great shape , flat top pistons 4 valve reliefs.
parts bought: howards hydralic flat tapett cam .470 lift 275/285 duration, howards lifters, com cam magnum hardened push rods stock length .08 wall, sealed power rings, fel pro engine gasket kit, melling hi volume oil pump,
Heads are off of a 1970 chevelle with 2.02 1.60 valves .550 lift springs they are gasket matched manley valves studded and guide plates. got them for $225
im trying to figure out what carb and intake i want. and stall converter. also in need of gears and headers. what else you guys wanna know
parts reusing: steel crank stock rods in great shape , flat top pistons 4 valve reliefs.
parts bought: howards hydralic flat tapett cam .470 lift 275/285 duration, howards lifters, com cam magnum hardened push rods stock length .08 wall, sealed power rings, fel pro engine gasket kit, melling hi volume oil pump,
Heads are off of a 1970 chevelle with 2.02 1.60 valves .550 lift springs they are gasket matched manley valves studded and guide plates. got them for $225
im trying to figure out what carb and intake i want. and stall converter. also in need of gears and headers. what else you guys wanna know
Way better description!!!
Make sure your can will handle those springs or your wipe a lobe
+1 on assembly lube
Add oil additive on break in
And take your time....ever had a rod cap hit a cam lobe? Not fun...back to the machine shop we go...
Glwb and remember this is supposed to be fun
Make sure your can will handle those springs or your wipe a lobe
+1 on assembly lube
Add oil additive on break in
And take your time....ever had a rod cap hit a cam lobe? Not fun...back to the machine shop we go...
Glwb and remember this is supposed to be fun
chstonebraker said:
If the springs are to heavy the cam can't pick it up. Causing the lifter to dig into the cam removing "wiping" the lobe
Those springs are a little much for the cam specs you gave. If the springs can handle .550" of lift and you only have a cam with .470" you're using too much spring rate for your application. Its like having super stiff suspension springs in a really light car kind of. Not necessarily the right application. What you can do is either get new springs that are better matched to your cam's lift, or run less aggressive springs just for break in so you don't excessively wear the cam lobes. I would probably just get new springs if you can as they shouldn't be too expensive. I wouldn't think your machine shop would charge you too much to swap the springs out. You also could do it yourself but that requires a spring compressor you may not have.
Before deciding or buying anything I would talk to a machine shop and see what they think. They have tons of experience and can give you advice on what is the best route for you. These forums are helpful but great advice can also come from real life people with lots of experience.
Before deciding or buying anything I would talk to a machine shop and see what they think. They have tons of experience and can give you advice on what is the best route for you. These forums are helpful but great advice can also come from real life people with lots of experience.
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