New to G-Bodies....

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i would go with the 78 because as said that paint could be hidding pretty bad stuff. i bought an 84 cutlass which had a paint job done about 2 years ago and after i bought it i realized how bad it was. they didn't pull down the plate and paint. I also learned how messed my fenders and 1/4s were after 6 months when they just rotted and the floor was shot. i would take some one with you who knows how to find flaws in body work by looking or high ends and low spots.
 
Well, the guy with the 78 didn't get back to me in time, so I just looked at the yellow one yesterday. It's in pretty good shape, one little rust spot behind the passenger side rear wheel, frame is good, floor boards are good, interior is good but the front seats have been replaced. The rear door panels are off, but in the car. It looks like the piece at the top of one of the door panels has been taken off the lower section of the panel. I'm not sure if it was on purpose or broken during removal. The rear fender looks kinda funny where it meets the rocker panel at the back door. Not sure if it's a factory flaw or not cause the body looked pretty straight. I've sighted bodies before looking for body work. Learned that from one of Dad's friends after I bought a 88 C1500 with a bed full of bondo where it had been backed into. It is an A/C car, but the condenser is missing as well as all the brackets for it and tubing. On that front, the green one does sound better if the surface rust on it isn't very bad. It isn't a cruise control car either, but that should be an easy swap in from another g-body.

He's pulling his motor and trans from it but leaving the headders and radiator. He's also throwing in a 8.5 and a rebuildable 700R4. I run a 700R4 we built in my Camaro now, so that's a plus for me. How stout are the 8.5s? I know most guys swap them out for a 12b or 9in when it comes to true performance. I swapped the 8.5 out of my k5 for a 12b when I was putting it together. How much power is one of them good for with stock parts? I'm wanting a true-trac and 4.10 gears and planning on putting a 450hp 355sbc in it with a 700R4.

Do the rear door windows not roll down in these things? The guy who has it said the there were no window regulators in it, that they were just held in place with some (very factory looking) brackets on the bottom of the window. It's also missing the filler panels at the rear bumper. I'm on my sister in law's computer right now and we left the camera in the hotel room but I'll try to get them up loaded tonight.
 
I'm sure you'll pick the one that's most suited to you. I would look at the other one as well. Heck, if I was closer I'd buy that one.

If the 8.5 rear is out of a GN, T-Type, 442, H/O. They're a good strong rear. But again, try to pick a car that's as complete as possible.
It sometimes gets nerve wracking chasing down certain parts.

Rear OEM fillers are getting harder to obtain. They do repop them in fiberglass, however. As for the rear door windows not opening. That's the way the General made them, like it or not. The vent windows do open and that's what helped supply ventilation to the rear passengers. I know it's a sucky system, but it's what it is.
The vent windows do tend to break at the pivot shaft if not used for extended periods.
Cruise control can always be added. That's no biggie.
Keep us updated. 🙂
 
Here are the pictures. Sorry they have taken so long to get up, but it's been a hectic weekend full of family, friends and a little booze mixed in to keep me social.
 

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more
 

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and the under-side now
 

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more underside
 

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few random. I think I am going to use Photobucket from now on when putting up this many pictures...
 

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So, Ohio trip is done and finally got around to going to check out the 78 today. I got a bunch of pictures of it, but it's a no-go for us. Today was just a bad omen all together, cranky kids, I was in a bad mood from the time I woke up, and then we get there and the car is parked back in the brush. Interior full of leaves and ants, cowl full of leaves, no radiator or any of the A/C stuff, most of a SBC swapped under the hood but nothing really hooked up. Heavy surface rust on the roof and around the rear window/side glasses. I think the yellow one is in MUCH better over all shape, even if some of it isn't 100%. At least it IS a running car right now. The green one doesn't look like it's run in 10 years or more. Guy even said he pulled it out of the weeds at his buddy's house when he bought it. Really the only thing it has going for it is it is a gauge car, but that can't be too difficult to swap in is it?


Does anyone see any major problems with the yellow car from the pictures I've posted?
 
That yellow one looks like a really decent starting point...looks solid and alot of the imperfections are easy fixes...Unless I missed it in the post, how much can you get it for? Btw, Welcome here to GBF!!
 
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