Good deal, I see the milessss and milesssss of vaccumm lining, trust me all of this crap is about to get deleted and only the essential stuff will remain..
New to G Body(Former FI F body owner)
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Good deal, I see the milessss and milesssss of vaccumm lining, trust me all of this crap is about to get deleted and only the essential stuff will remain..
Step by step dont bite off more than you can chew. Ive done it a million times. You want to improve the car so you just tear everything apart lol. Then the car sits for ever. Just a helpful tip.
Lol thats true, I just hate all the extra cap, i was under the hood on lunch and was like this cant be real, its just soooo much vaccum
Life will be simpler if you leave all the vacuum circuits functioning, unless you know what effect each will have once disconnected and how to tune it right again.
Most of the time you will find that you want to keep most of them anyway, then it's a matter of running new hoses in a cleaner manor than was previously done.
Most of the time you will find that you want to keep most of them anyway, then it's a matter of running new hoses in a cleaner manor than was previously done.
Hello. Welcome to g-body forum, I have an 85 that looks just like yours. 307 w roller cam and the 'good' heads. I also have an anemic 307'd 88 w/ flat tappet and the 'bad' heads. The fuel filter is crucial. Old particles can slip past if you don't change it and 'score' the inside of your carb or cause the idle mixture pin to go slack. Don't mess w/ your vacuum hoses or you will be sorry. If they work don't touch it. You don't flush a trans unless you have money to rebuild a trans. If you flush the trans and it was near the end of it's life, it will fall on it's face in weeks - more likely minutes. You can tell a failing trans easily the 1st gear to stop working correctly is reverse. If you start having problems w R it is near the end of it's life. Top off the fluid and baby it around so the old fluid just goes through the system. The high idle sound is supposed to go away within 3-4 minutes of starting the car for the 1st time of the day. If you don't hear a drop in tone of the engine 2-3 min after starting your car, or even after putting it in gear, you do have a vacuum leak then. Don't start ripping off tubes so fast, its not worth it unless you're going to give the whole engine the boot and go full swap. There are virtually no hp to be gained on a 307 so just stay stock until you can afford something w EFI! best wishes to you.
I agree with what has been stated about tearing into things too fast, step by step is best.
Also wanted to add a word of caution about removing the fuel line at the carb. Be careful that you are only turning the nut and that the entire hard line is not twisting with it. It's been my experience that these can become as one due to corrosion.
Welcome to the site and enjoy your new ride
Also wanted to add a word of caution about removing the fuel line at the carb. Be careful that you are only turning the nut and that the entire hard line is not twisting with it. It's been my experience that these can become as one due to corrosion.
Welcome to the site and enjoy your new ride
Good morning guys, so this morning she toughed through the snow and ice that covered the streets here in philly like a champ as she is currently my daily ( dont judge me getting a beater soon) because my other car was a turd, and i noticed that idle is high only when in park and when i shift to drive the engine moves aka jacked up motor mounts lol, going to fix those in a bit as i was talking to one of the guys at my job that has a wagoneer and he was tweaking with his carb and we started discussing idle stuff as his idle is too low in drive and fine in park and my idle is high in park but fine in drive, i had no idea that the mounts were bad as I only checked it out when in park and didnt have anyone to move from park to drive, Just another thing i'll add to the list. Trans is fine currently so i wont bother to mess with it, on my W body impala i did a fluid and filter change december 26th by jan 9th the car lost all gears on the delaware memorial lol. Thanks for the input guys always appreciated and thanks for the welcome.
As i said before i know nothing about carbs, So anything with it i'll probably have my G body friends look at it but nonetheless as far as carbs how does it work can any carb fit or what? I know i have the dual jet now, do i stay with that or can a quad jet fit? Is it better to just rebuild or rejet?
You have the old 307 it just doesnt get any better than that. They where fitted with an emmision controlled sytem while using a carb & ecu. It was the 80's. The proper way to remove the mess would be by deleting all the emmision and ecu systems. And to put that much time into a 307...well it wouldnt be worth it imo. The carb supplies vacuum to many other parts for reference on load and stuff like that. Its not going to run like a fuel injected car at all. If you want a smooth running engine do a tune up. Mostly electrical here is a list I would consider.
Sparkplugs
Plug wires
Distributor cap and rotor
HEI coil
Air cleaner
Alternator
Adjust valve lash
And you should be good with these few things but of course if some things on the list are new dont bother.
Sparkplugs
Plug wires
Distributor cap and rotor
HEI coil
Air cleaner
Alternator
Adjust valve lash
And you should be good with these few things but of course if some things on the list are new dont bother.
Don't remove the emissions stuff or the car will run even worse. The original carb is the best carb to use. Do not even touch the ecu at all... dont unplug anything, if you do replace it with stock. Stay stock. Don't spend $ on a 307 it will not pay you back. Look at swaps on here. To switch to a chevrolet you need different motor mounts. If you want to finish off your 307 and get your $ worth use the stock ones for now, but plan on chevy motor mount if you aren't going to keep the car original. Most people look for a olds 350 block / olds 403 so they can re-use accesories but on a high mileage car it doesnt really matter since most of the accesories are obviously nearly terminal anyway.
http://www.amazon.com/Cliff-Ruggles/e/B001K7SJOG These books are some of the better carb rebuild guides for Rochester. Don't sleep on the library, I found it there for free so I didn't buy the book hardcopy. It is probably somewhere online for free but I dont see it anywhere since its (c)
http://www.amazon.com/Cliff-Ruggles/e/B001K7SJOG These books are some of the better carb rebuild guides for Rochester. Don't sleep on the library, I found it there for free so I didn't buy the book hardcopy. It is probably somewhere online for free but I dont see it anywhere since its (c)
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