OEM Weatherstrip

[RG383Hurst]

47 buxx to your door. There store is fairly close to me and I used it on the Cutlass with great results.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=253420191216

Good info to know. Ordered the Metro kit last week, if those don't work out I will give these a try. Like everyone else, I'm kicking myself for not buying the GM seals when I had the opportunity. Definitely going to be on the lookout for when I start the 84 Hurst resto.

 

[78chevolds]

Yeah, the repro's suck and is now the cause for my rust hole in the driver's side, floor. The front upper door seal was not flush enough to the A pillar. I put some additional foam but in hindsight I should have gotten some plexiglass, rather foam to thicken that area. The foam eventually compressed too much and allowed water to leak into the driver's side floor. Now I have to find someone to fix the floor which was mint for a 40 yr old daily driver here in New England, and get a new door seal and dick around getting that piece to be more flush with the A pillar.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

I tried both Softseal and Metro and both suck just as much. Both probably came from the same Chinese factory. Our cars are so old now that few manufacturers care to bother spending the r&d on quality reproduction parts. Just whatever generic garbage they can pump out for the lowest cost.

 

[TURNA]

The seals I linked are made in North America!!!!

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Sometimes made in America is not really made in America, there are several work arounds to claim it. Regardless, Metro lower door seals do not fit worth a damn either. I found them worse than softseal on my Regal. Many companies focus only on value instead of satisfaction which has a lower profit margin, which is likely what both metro and softseal are attempting to do. But if a seal doesn't seal, then there is neither value or satisfaction for the customer.

 

[Vortectim]

I have Lynn Steele of Steele Rubber's now wanting pictures of the oem rubber products. If anyone has an original that shows the plastic insert please post it here. He wants to show the engineers how they should be built and admitted to me that they outsource these from another company. If we could mail one to him that would be the best. I can get the information immediately.

 

[Vortectim]

You went from $250 to $300 in 2 minutes! Haha.

 

[88hurstolds]

You went from $250 to $300 in 2 minutes! Haha.

had, two sets, both sold within minutes.

 

[88hurstolds]

And they called me crazy for stocking up on those "over-expensive" GM weather-strips back in the day….they weren't cheap when I bought 'em, relatively, but they fit and function like a dream.

NOBODY makes them aftermarket with the end plastic pieces or the squiggly wire reinforcement (where applicable). If they could, I'm sure the price would be adjusted up accordingly. Plus, the hardness of the aftermarket seals are much denser it seems and don't accommodate with enough crush in my opinion. Plus, it is my opinion (no proof) they simply try to get over by molding Cutlass ends on Monte Carlo door seals.

I've only had one experience with aftermarket seals years ago after repainting my 84 H/O. Tried soff seal door seals and they were nicely made, but a tad short. Even with adhesive and minor stretching, they still fit like crap. Then I had to slam the crap out of the door to get it to close. After about a week of that crap, went to GM seals and never looked back.

I have 8 sets, just sold 3 of them on FB and TB for $250, $300 and $400 in an hour lol, keeping the rest for my 10 cars. Also had requests for the roof rails, I have 4 sets of those but am reluctant to sell them, I have 3 cars that can use them... I have seen them go for as much as $600 a pair. I have a few t-top sets that are spares I might let go this weekend, need to dig them out. Demand is high for NOS since the aftermarkets are so crappy unfortunately... even the ones from NY are just the same as Metro seals if you look at the pictures closely at the parting lines.