Oil gauge line
- Thread starter JD1964
- Start date
3’ was perfect from the back of the LT1 intake to the center of the dash mounted on the bottom edge.
I rotated the fitting in the block so the braided line would connect in a vertical position. It made for a perfect stress relief 1/2 loop before swooping down and through the firewall.
I cut a section of 1/2” heater hose to use a a grommet at the firewall. I drilled a perfectly sized hole for the hose to squeeze into. I filled the gap on the inside between the heater hose and braided line with clear RTV. I also secured the hose piece to the firewall with RTV.
The length of braided line under the dash only needed one zip tie to a section of harness for a secure fit before connecting to a 90 degree fitting at the back of the gauge.
I rotated the fitting in the block so the braided line would connect in a vertical position. It made for a perfect stress relief 1/2 loop before swooping down and through the firewall.
I cut a section of 1/2” heater hose to use a a grommet at the firewall. I drilled a perfectly sized hole for the hose to squeeze into. I filled the gap on the inside between the heater hose and braided line with clear RTV. I also secured the hose piece to the firewall with RTV.
The length of braided line under the dash only needed one zip tie to a section of harness for a secure fit before connecting to a 90 degree fitting at the back of the gauge.
few questions, why are you going with mech oil gauge? i'm considering this on my 86' ss after blowing a oil sensor leaving me stuck bout 20 miles from home and it & engine have near 3k miles on it and wondering what's their durability vs a iffy new china made sensor, i can't have that happen again cuz next time i might might be left even further out. i was lucky ro get it to a gas station losing 3qts in less than 2 miles.
I’ve always preferred mechanical gauges but lately got spooked by worrying about line rupture. Now that I have the braided steel type line I feel less vulnerable to line rupture
Interesting that you stuck with the mechanical gage. Although, that was a great deal on the price of your new gage. I've always considered oil pressure for a street engine to be just fine if you were showing reasonable oil pressure, even from an electric transducer. Let's say the gage says 30 psi. Either it is, or it isn't. Is it really 28 or 32? Who cares? The engine doesn't care. It's either going to be enough oil or not. The engine will let you know quick. Trends are more important. Say you're running 30-ish at idle as the "norm" and one day it starts running at 10 psi, THAT's a concern. Of course, I buy old-school Delco transducers, so they're less prone to leaks.
I wasn't even aware of this until last week, but the wife's 2020 CT5-V doesn't even have an oil pressure gage on the instrument panel. Just an idiot light. Water temp and tach, with volts in the DIC, but no oil pressure. Strange. You would think a "performance" car would have an oil pressure gage. Truck has one and its a 2020. WTF? I need to drive that car more. It's pretty fun.
I wasn't even aware of this until last week, but the wife's 2020 CT5-V doesn't even have an oil pressure gage on the instrument panel. Just an idiot light. Water temp and tach, with volts in the DIC, but no oil pressure. Strange. You would think a "performance" car would have an oil pressure gage. Truck has one and its a 2020. WTF? I need to drive that car more. It's pretty fun.
My wifes car doesn't even have a dipstick. Just a dash menu that says ok level ok
My wife's car has a dipstick. I think she'd claim two dipsticks if I'm in it.
i'm looking to get the steel braided line as well, do you happen to have a link to it?
something happened to my gauge at same time it went and now just sticks all the way past 60[ even when shut off as well as choke light now stays on all the time. never concerned bout this previously. my mechanic said the 2 are on same circut.
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