Old Buick 350

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Regalproject213

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 26, 2015
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So I decided to grab an unknown Buick 350 from a guy on craigslist. He said he had it sitting out in the yard at his house. He did say some water got into the block through the carb. I got it with the Trans all for $100. I get home and the engine is seized. Do you guys have any tricks to try to break it lose? I did open up the valve cover and there is no water there. Oil is bit runny but nothing on the top end looks too bad...I figured for a hundred bucks it was worth a shot since Buick 350's are hard to find around here. Did I just F up lol.
 

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It's probably still not a bad deal with the trans. Try to get a hold of either Aero-Kroil, or Sili-Kroil. Both great products...and one of the best penetrating oils out there. Pull the plugs and wet down the cylinders and let it soak for a while. Keep the heads on in the meantime.
The stuff ain't cheap, but it works. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0003041WK/?tag=gbody-20
I would try that before doing anything drastic.
 
It's probably still not a bad deal with the trans. Try to get a hold of either Aero-Kroil, or Sili-Kroil. Both great products...and one of the best penetrating oils out there. Pull the plugs and wet down the cylinders and let it soak for a while. Keep the heads on in the meantime.
The stuff ain't cheap, but it works. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0003041WK/?tag=gbody-20
I would try that before doing anything drastic.

Ill try this next. A buddy of mine said that he has luck with Marvel Mystery Oil. So I went and grabbed some really quick and filled all spark plug openings with it. Fingers crossed it breaks loose. I really think it will. Any ideas with the quadreajet? Can it be rebuilt? really not that rusted up just the flange on top, but just a few specs?
 
Do as Jack said, or even some old transmission oil will work well. Then get a socket that fits the crank snout bolt and a long breaker bar. The idea is to GENTLY rock the crank back and forth, eventually breaking loose whatever is stuck. Take your time, let the penetrating oil work, do not force anything. Also if you can, get an oil pump priming tool and pump fresh oil through the motor first. An old cut down distributor works, just cut off the weights end and grab the shaft in a 1/2" drill, then pump away. I know this works because I had a well wrapped up Pontiac 400 that a hurricane blew water all up into, filling several cylinders right up to the carb flange. Yeah. But I did as I said and that motor still works great to this day.
 
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Do as Jack said, or even some old transmission oil will work well. Then get a socket that fits the crank snout bolt and a long breaker bar. The idea is to GENTLY rock the crank back and forth, eventually breaking loose whatever is stuck. Take your time, let the penetrating oil work, do not force anything. Also if you can, get an oil pump priming tool and pump fresh oil through the motor first. An old cut down distributor works, just cut off the weights end and grab the shaft in a 1/2" drill, then pump away. I know this works because I had a well wrapped up Pontiac 400 that a hurricane blew water all up into, filling several cylinders right up to the carb flange. Yeah. But I did as I said and that motor still works great to this day.

I don't have any other distributor other than the one on the engine. Should I remove it when I try to break it loose? By the weights end what do you mean? I am sorry I am learning on the go. I was also thinking of taking a piece of squared steel tubing and bolting it down to the crank pulley itself so I don't strip the bolt, good idea or no? I already filled up the spark plug holes with mystery oil. So I guess Ill see how that goes. I have also heard Diesel works? or is that just a myth.

How long should I wait after I let it soak?
 
Remove the valve covers, then the rocker shafts and rocker arms. Try turning it, if its still stuck more than likely its stuck on the rings. Then take the intake and heads off. Fill each cyl with penetrating oil and let her sit.
 
Yes, that tool is perfect, and the price is right. You must remove the distributor to use it, so mark the base so you can get it back in as it was. The rotor will turn as you lift it out because the gear on the bottom of the shaft will twist past the worm gear on the cam shaft. You must reverse that twist to get it back in exactly the same way. Or just time it from scratch, whatever is needed. Under the rotor are timing advance weights, never mind them since you will get the proper tool. And I said GENTLY! No need to stress the bolt or anything else. Let the oil soak for as long as it takes. Mine took weeks. After work every day I would go out to the garage and give it a go- eventually it budged. From then on it was more oil and more time, eventually loosening up all the way. But it seemed like forever at the time.
 
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