Old Buick 350

[Regalproject213]

Yes, that tool is perfect, and the price is right. You must remove the distributor to use it, so mark the base so you can get it back in as it was. The rotor will turn as you lift it out because the gear on the bottom of the shaft will twist past the worm gear on the cam shaft. You must reverse that twist to get it back in exactly the same way. Or just time it from scratch, whatever is needed. Under the rotor are timing advance weights, never mind them since you will get the proper tool. And I said GENTLY! No need to stress the bolt or anything else. Let the oil soak for as long as it takes. Mine took weeks. After work every day I would go out to the garage and give it a go- eventually it budged. From then on it was more oil and more time, eventually loosening up all the way. But it seemed like forever at the time.

Thank you sir! I just ordered the tool. And I WILL be taking your advice! Slowly but surely it will come loose 🙂...

 

[Bonnewagon]

Even though the tool description is for CHEVY it should work. The difference from Buick and all other motors is Chevy uses a much longer shaft. But the pump end should be the same. The top bushing is for fitting into the Chevy intake manifold which the distributor passes through, and is why the shaft is longer. A reviewer mentioned there is no way to secure that bushing so you can probably remove it and carry on.

 

[Regalproject213]

Even though the tool description is for CHEVY it should work. The difference from Buick and all other motors is Chevy uses a much longer shaft. But the pump end should be the same. The top bushing is for fitting into the Chevy intake manifold which the distributor passes through, and is why the shaft is longer. A reviewer mentioned there is no way to secure that bushing so you can probably remove it and carry on.

Yea I saw that too, Im sure there will be a way to make it workout. And if not HEY, behind my engine pic is my 64 chevy stepside I will need to turn sooner or later so no loss. Fingers crossed it will turn over before I even get the tool..hopeful wishing I suppose lol

 

[Bonnewagon]

You will be fine. Just ask anything you need to know on here, this site is the best. There are some great Buick guys on here that know plenty more than me.

 

[Regalproject213]

You will be fine. Just ask anything you need to know on here, this site is the best. There are some great Buick guys on here that know plenty more than me.

Thanks! I've been reading on this site at work... I don't believe I did any work this last week lol. Good thing we are slow.

 

[ssn696]

Buicks are one of the most expensive engines to hot rod. Great torque, though. I'd keep an eye out for a 455 if this deal does not work out.

 

[Regalproject213]

You will be fine. Just ask anything you need to know on here, this site is the best. There are some great Buick guys on here that know plenty more than me.

Thanks! I've been reading on this site at work... I don't believe I did any work this last week lol. Good thing we are slow.

Buicks are one of the most expensive engines to hot rod. Great torque, though. I'd keep an eye out for a 455 if this deal does not work out.

There is one. Around here.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/5208702590.html

But with that I would really need to worry about rear end and other issues. I am not trying to hot rod. I really just want a quick swap with a little more pep. From what I have read the sbb is as simple as swap as they come.

 

[Bar50]

Try brake fluid. Down the cylinders via the spark plug holes. Let it set. Then I would use a crow bar, pry bar, pinch bar on the flex plate. Work slowly both ways. Automatic trans fluid, even used and burnt will work, but does not creep and seep in like brake fluid. Its what they do at salvage yards.

The SBB is a simple swap.

The BBB in stock form is an awesome torque monster than will run on 87 octane.



The chrome valve covers for 350 Buick hit the A/C box....

 

[Regalproject213]

Try brake fluid. Down the cylinders via the spark plug holes. Let it set. Then I would use a crow bar, pry bar, pinch bar on the flex plate. Work slowly both ways. Automatic trans fluid, even used and burnt will work, but does not creep and seep in like brake fluid. Its what they do at salvage yards.

The SBB is a simple swap.

The BBB in stock form is an awesome torque monster than will run on 87 octane.



The chrome valve covers for 350 Buick hit the A/C box....

Right now I have marvel mystery oil soaking. I'll let that sit about a week and see if it frees up.

I want to keep the ac what did you do to clear the box?

 

[Bar50]

With stock valve covers it will clear. In the last pic of the Buick motor, you can see I opened up the A/C box wall. I modified it over for more room, so I could remove the valve cover with the engine in the car. The later 350 Buicl valve covers are more rounded at the back and offer more room/space.

Had to make a brace longer that comes off of the intake to use/keep the 231-3.8 accessories.
I cut the smog pump braket off of the top of the power steering bracket.

I had an A/C shop graft me some lines out of the mix between the V6 and a set of small block Chevy 305 lines/manifold.

If you have all the V8 Buick accessories you could run them, make up a line/manifold. It will clear. I have done a few, even a few with 455 Buicks.