Olds 307 Engine Tune up gone wrong...

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My system does list the 307 engine option for the 1987 Regal and the AC 41-630 plugs @ .060" gap is the correct standard replacement plug for that engine.

:idea:
Is it possible that you mounted the rotor 180* off :?:
Is it possible you forgot to replace the little coil tit, that goes under the coil :?:
Double check your firing order :?:

I have replaced I coil in the past and the little coil tit was stuck to the bottom of the old coil and I didn't realize it. It can actually still throw a spark without it. I doubt something just happen to "go bad" between the time you shut the car off and did the tune-up and the time you tried to fire it back up.
 
I'd try putting the old cap & coil back on if you didn't chuck it already. No chance that you accidentally broke any of the coil wires or disturbed the module wires did you? They've been known to break off the connector too. You could also test the Accel coil if you can dig up the ohm range for it somewhere. I'd also make sure the coil wires to the cap are seated if you haven't done so already, may be worth seeing if the connectors have any corrosion too. There isn't much to getting one of these to run and I'm sure you'll figure it out.
 
RITTER said:
Is it possible that you mounted the rotor 180* off :?:

Can't do that. There's a slot in the rotor that matches the distributor shaft so it's foolproof. However, I have seen the tab come loose from the rotor and make an exhaust manifold glow red hot on an Olds 350.
 
I made sure no coil wires were crimped under the coil or distributor wires smashed under the cap when putting it back on but I'll recheck. I know I put that little "tit" in there haha, it came with the cap and a new rubber grommet/washer.

One interesting thing I just noticed all the old plugs were gapped at about .055, maybe the gap tool I bought sucks and I actually over gapped all my new plugs to .065 when I thought I was gapping them to .060??? Would something that minimal cause a car to not start?
 
I doubt .005 would make that much of a difference. It's more than likely from wear or carbon anyway. All you need is air, fuel, spark & compression. It's just a matter of figuring out which one it is. Any chance that the choke isn't opening? No fuel in the carb?
 
RITTER said:
I think it's possible to do it, just not likely.

I suppose it it possible if someone tried to muscle f*ck it on there. I have seen some odd things in my time....20ga speaker wire to starter solenoids for instance :rofl:
 
Rotors on the correct way. You'd really have to be an idiot to put that on wrong after looking at it lol theres even a notch in it that the plate underneath sets into. You can see the notch on the one side in that pic posted. Gonna check for fuel next i gotta run to the store and get some clear tube I dont wanna have gas all over the place

Oh and how do I tell if the choke is opening?
 
any backfiring?

check the firing order. on the cap and the motor.

start simple.
 
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