olds 350 to a SBC 350 swap

Status
Not open for further replies.
How durable are the transmissions in these cars?
It all depends on the transmission and what you do to it. A TH 350 is the strongest and it's a 3 speed. Th200 4R is pretty popular as it has the same 1-3 ratios as a TH350 but adds a .67 overdrive. It is not as durable in stock form as the TH350, but it can take a fair amount of abuse with some work. I run a stock one with 400+ ft lbs of torque and 350 hp at the crank ( estimated on computer)

What are some good sites to get aftermarket parts?
The biggest is Summit Racing for performance parts, restoration parts are more spotty.

What kind of cylinder compressioin should i get when doing a compression test on a 74 350 olds?
I would guess 125-150 psi on a stock 8.5:1 compression engine with a stock cam. The important thing to check for is variance between cylinders. more than 5-10 psi indicates the possibility of a problem. Unlike the 4G63 you likely had in the DSM, older V8 engines aren't too expensive to rebuild.

You start modifying these cars, whats the first thing to break?
Rear axle or transmission depending on what you have.

Any thing notorious for breaking on these cars? (I.E My 1990 eagle talon, if you didn't change the timing belt after 55k you would be replacing a head) Rear end when running slicks, power seat motor transmission, TH200C 3 speed trans ( V6 and weak V8 cars).

Is 325hp too much to ask out of these motors? How do i Get there reliably?
325hp is tame! You don't need much to get there, but you will need to rebuild the engine. You want no less than 9.5:1 compression, a dual plane intake, better heads ( stock or aftermarket), and a reasonable cam. If you have a Quadrajet and an HEI ignition, you can tune the parts you have and skip buying a new carb or distributor.

And last but not least.... how do you get these things to hook up? Mine just spins really well.
You need a limited slip diff. Which one you need depends on your gearing. There are "case breaks", meaning each diff is designed with a set of ratios it can run. Unlike a Ford, GM varied the differential carrier, mounting flange position rather than the ring gear thickness to compensate for the smaller pinion gear on lower ( numerically higher) geared vehicles. Look at S- trucks ( S-10, S-15, S-10 Blazer, S-15 Jimmy, Sonoma, Bravada) and F cars for a LSD. G bodies also sometimes had it too. Cars and trucks that have it will have a code G80 on the Service Parts Identification label.
 
Thanks for the good info.. I think I am going to take your advise and rip that motor out and do a good old fashion rebuild.

Is there anywhere or anyone to get these infamous #5 heads from? Not against rebuilding them but, don't want to get bent over the barrel on them either

Couple more questions

I have #3 heads on my car, can I tell the year of the motor from those or is there a better way to tell.

What I have read the headers from a 307 will bolt to the 350. Do I have to use special headers for clearance issues?

What is a good piston to run in these? I see alot of fedral Mogal(sp?) around. Are they reliable?

Whats a good cam valve setup?

Thanks for the help
 
the "3" casting no: 389394 came from a 66 olds 330 engine ....with 60cc they sure give a boost on your CR (if you have a low CR block :71- )

i had a 70 rallye 350 cutlass that was rated 350hp with a very tame cam & no 6 heads ....10.25 CR went real good and 20mpg ....

like you said, id tear it down to verify condition & modify.
what gears do you have ( original 2:41 or better ) this has a major effect on performance
if you keep 3 speed auto id go 3:08 -3:23 if you go 200r4 OD ,id go 3:42-3:73 ....
come back on this ! ;-)

Dan
 
olds valve springs limited the lift to around .480 you can get some crane or comp springs that will give you more possibilities .aniway get those verified because if high mileage engine ,tey have to go !

cam wise if its a dailydriver, id go 215 dur @050 with .480-.500 lift on a 110 lsa .....great all around cam specs for power from 1500-5000 rpm

what kind of car you have : A gbody ? any type of headers for an olds powered G body will aply

Dan
 
Im going to tear down the motor. While I am doing it I want to modify where modifing is needed.

How do I tel if its a 350 vs a 330?
 
concerning 330-350 ident:

330 had a bore of 3.938
350 had a bore of 4.057
the 330 crankshaft was forged also : parting line is about .375 wide instead of around .050 for a cast 350 crank .

Dan ...
 
So, what you are saying is that I have to tear the motor down to tell if is a 330 vs a 350?

I would like to start buying some parts but I don't want to buy them for the wrong engine


Joe
 
I do not know how to tell, but before you start you will need a beater/parts chaser to get around in and take parts to and from the machine shop. Don't tear it down before you have one or you'll be sorry. Small trucks are the best but an old minivan or small station wagon is good too. Just has to run not be pretty.
 
Hey Joe ,
dint you say in previous post that you would tear down the engine aniway!

why order parts without even knowing the engine condition or displacement ...it's a nice winter project , start by tearing it down, clean up all parts, measure and inspect then you order parts ( crank might be standard and need only polishing etc...)

if compulsive , you can already call for the intake ,headers ....but wait for the internals & gaskets etc..

dont do a move that you might regret later ! dont rush ...my advice ;-)

Dan
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor