I had to buy another puller to get the timing gear off the crank but it is done. It has an acceptable amount of slack. Lifters came out easy with a strong magnet, they look good, kept in order. The cam also looks good, no pitting or excessive wear. Having no play in the valve train is a good sign.
Both so close, no real difference. Both were available in W31 large valve versions as well. My heads with the bowls opened with cutter would probably out flow W31 heads. Both were technically leaded gas heads, only 1972 7A heads had induction hardened exhaust seats of the early heads. Not necessary anyway, almost no valve seat recession with Olds heads and unleaded gas. Hope these heads will only be on here a couple of years, the new 68cc Edelbrock heads should be out in November.
I’m just in process of taking a 68’ 350/4bbl that is still In what’s left of the original car. It’s frozen up but still, I couldn’t let it and some other parts get crushed. I’m planning on rebuilding it, just not in the immediate future.
Cam and fuel pump eccentric torqued to 65 ft/lbs, timing chain dot to dot which is 107 ICL. Oil pan, water pump and front cover torqued in place. Flex plate bolts torqued to 65 ft/lbs and the Scat Harmonic balancer decently tight with my Ryobi 18V impact. I used Royal Purple assembly lube on the cam, lifters and timing chain.
Other head, the chambers are polished. All gasket surfaces cleaned on both heads. I used carb cleaner, compressed air then brake cleaner and more compressed air to get all the filings. I used the Permatex Copper high temp gasket spray on the head side only, since it doesn't have a fresh machined surface, a few thousand miles since machining. I used the ARP lube on the ARP head bolts, went to the factory 80 ft/lbs, seeing some have had leakage issues at the 70 ft/lbs ARP recommends for Olds head bolts. Painted the heads once torqued in place. The spark plugs in the heads to protect the the threads, junk Champion plugs that will come out once the paint dries, NGK XR5 to replace them.
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