Put in the XR5 spark plugs. Put the intake on to see how it looks.
Olds 358 build
- Thread starter olds307 and 403
- Start date
That's what I used also, they do take some grinding, but I had already smoothed out the casting on the inside to help them slide in better. Not sure how much it helps, but worth it since most are summer cars anyway.
I like that they can be removed, unlike filling a crossover with Zinc or Aluminum. These heads may end up in a truck application yet, that will receive Winter duty.
Installed this just to kind of see how it fit. It must be very close to the trap door in the oil pan, needs finesse to seat the stick all the way.
I was going to use the Turkey Tray gasket, only style that would fit without question. I decided to try the Mr Gasket Ultraseal intake gaskets I bought off Cutlassefi probably 10 years ago. I tried them with my Performer on a stock 76 350, no go. So I will finally be able to use them, thanks to a clean up mill on this intake when the injector bungs were installed. I might actually check and see if the Performer will fit, it may be less than straight. I was able to fit the SCE gaskets on a 403 with this RPM before the injectors were added, probably straighter to begin with. I also put rags in the valley and tapped all the intake bolt holes, plenty of gunk in the holes. I need to figure out an intake bolt set, mine wasn't sent and refunded. I would not mind a reduced head set, to match the one small one needed on the one runner.
I've decided not to reuse the used Edelbrock 3712 cam and lifters in this motor. I just had a bad feeling reusing them I couldn't shake. I looked on Summit a while back, even the Melling version is nearly $400 Canadian. The 3712 is $353 US now, well over $400 CAD. I was looking on Amazon Canada. Last I looked they were out of stock for the 3712 but at a really good price. I looked the other day, 3 in stock at $266 CAD, that is $198 US! I couldn't get springs and pushrods to use my roller cam for that much money. Then both my transmissions would be very questionable under the extra power. I ordered the 3712 cam and lifters and a 5 quart jug of Lucas Hot Rod 10W30 high ZDDP oil which dropped $4 to $55, what I paid at Napa. Last I looked Napa had none on the shelf, had a whole display before. I take this all as a sign as the right thing to do since I thought of my Daughter's 2013 Ford Edge which had blower fan issues a month or so back. It popped into my head the day I found this, I texted her, no response. My Wife called her that day, she said funny you should ask, it stopped working today, first time since I last had an issue, a sign! I will throw a degree wheel to check it for accuracy. My Proform socket came to mount the degree wheel. Then break this cam in with this Lucas oil and the Qjet and HEI but have the EFI already to go for after cam break in. Should be here in a week or so then a partial disassembly and new cam degree and install.
A machinist on Classic Olds suggested an actual break in oil, forgot it existed. Lucas is the only affordable option on our Amazon. Either 30W or 20W50, which one and why is my question?
Personally I have used 20w50 being thicker and was what I was going to use. But either way before cranking the engine I had pumped it through the system with a drill and a custom crank bar of a screwdriver and metal sleeve to ensure-A) no oil plugs forgotten ( did it once 4 qts of oil on the floor) and -B) no dry bearings at first fire up. Basically you’re cleaning and lubricating. Any potential debris is washed to the filter. Plus Al the pre lube is getting washed off when running. The W is “ detergent” and wetting agent. Wetting meaning sticking to the parts. Though I can be wrong.
Thanks I will be priming with a drill. I was leaning towards the 30W but nothing is set in stone. I plan on the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm for the cam then drive around in low gear, revving the throttle up and down a bunch of times to seat the rings then change the break in oil to the Lucas Hotrod 10W30.
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