Olds Long block install

Status
Not open for further replies.

foxtrot

Royal Smart Person
Dec 19, 2008
1,489
592
113
USA
It's been about ~16 years since I've done an engine install. I was able to maintain all of the CCC tuff and it worked out great.

The question that I have is with regards to the oil system prime. I recall that before the initial engine start that I primed the oil system with a drill and then reinstalled the dist at cyl 1 tdc. I was wondering if this step was really a necessary step? Should all of the bearings have some type of assembly lube that will lubricate until the oil pressure comes up?

Thanks for any advice.
 
I've also been told that I can prime the pump by disconnecting the distributor power and cranking the engine until the oil pressure comes up. Is this okay?
 
it is better for the motor if you prime it first, and it is way better if you use a drill to prime than turning the whole motor over with the starter. If you just turn it over with the power cut to the dissy then you could gaul the bearings as the starter will not produce enough rpm for suffecient oiling on the first start up
 
I have heard it is okay to prime it by turning the engine over with all of the spark plugs out. I would disconnect the fuel pump and dist., you dont want fuel accidentally draining past the rings and getting into the oil.

I think the best way to do it is with the drill.
 
taking all the plugs out would help it spin a little faster but I would not risk it and just use the drill, and you can get the tool cheap at any autoparts store for like 10 bucks....
 
Thanks for the info -- this is an olds application and I think that the oil prime tool is different from the chevy tool. I found one that claims to be for olds engines... Thanks.
 
foxtrot_lima_bravo said:
Thanks for the info -- this is an olds application and I think that the oil prime tool is different from the chevy tool. I found one that claims to be for olds engines... Thanks.

You dont need to waste money. The oil pump rod on an Olds is just a hex shaped rod. All you need is a 5/16" socket with a long 1/4" drive extension, mount the extension in a drill and run it backwards. Be careful not to drop the socket in there, that could be bad. You can take off the valve cover and wait for the oil to come up to the rocker arms, then you are done.
 
Here's another free way to do it. If you have an old Olds distributor laying around, take it apart so that you have just the cam gear and shaft in your hands. You'll have to cut the very top of it off so you can slide it into your drill. Then use a bench grinder to grind off the teeth of the cam gear, and put it in your drill. It's free, and you won't have to worry about anything falling into the motor.
 
Trying to prime a new motor by cranking it over is most likely a good way to wipe out the cam. When you break a cam in you want to vary the rpm betwwen(depending on who you ask)2000 to 3000. Your just gonna grind up the cam turning it at 400 or 500 rpm. Just my .02's.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor