Paint removal advice

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OLD PAINT most likely Lead based , be sure to wear proper respirator /face shield .
I would buy some Aircraft stripper , paint it on with a brush . Put card board down to catch the Mess , scrap off as much as possible with a putty knife WEAR GLOVES & FACE SHIELD . hose down car to neutralize any left over stripper . then do rest with a DA sander and 80 grit .
 
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I'm not a pro either.but on mine in would do the whole front then we epoxy sealed it .and yes .you can not use a can! You would have to re move it all done .when it ready for the real primer and paint
 
Epoxy is definitely the best primer to raw metal, even before any filler. Rules of use vary per brand.
I use SPI epoxy. Very important rule with it, metal surface temps should not drop under 65 degrees for 24 hours or you risk it not fully curing EVER. 2 days dry time preferable before applying filler. Within a 7 day average time frame window, filler & other coatings can be applied without the need to sand first. If setting for months after epoxy coating, it's best to scuff & spray a fresh coat before proceeding in next steps for best bonding. Thinned SPI epoxy makes a great sealer coat directly before paint and adds extra bonding to it.
These are basic rules with SPI epoxy, others may vary some.
2k direct to metal primers may work, just not as secure of a base coating. I don't care to ever see self etch primer again.
Stripping disc won't affect existing metal surface condition much at all.
There is no good temporary coating for metal I know of. However, kept dry with no oily handprints , any flash rust isn't a big deal to remove later.
If doing things right was easy, any idiot could do it. Not so.

https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect-paint-job
 
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I'm not a body guy, but you probably would want an etch primer or epoxy primer on bare metal. If you're talking about a sandable primer in a can, or even hi build primer, they are permeable, meaning water can wick trough them and cause rust. An epoxy (I'm using PPG DP90) will keep moisture off, then your hi build primer to block.

Good advice. I've been using epoxy primer on all my car projects for several years. It has great adhesion properties with bare metal and it will protect it well until you're ready to paint.

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NEVER NEVER NEVER strip an entire car to bare metal all at once!

Strip no more than you can immediately prime...preferably one panel at a time and prime with epoxy or Variprime.

Also, keep your fingers/hands off of it after stripping...., the moisture, oils and acids in your skin will cause problems later..
 
i wouldn't strip the paint of the whole car at once either. Whatever you strip will get surface rust over night. Easiest to start with main shell remove paint then sand all surface rust and epoxy prime. Then do a body piece at a time and mount it on car when painted. I add body filler before epoxy primer but you can prime then use filler if you want. After you have done that use urethane primer. After i paint with the urethane primer i take a rattle can of primer that is a different color than the urethane primer and speckle it around body part. Then you sand with straight blocks and it shows your high and lows spots and it will show the sanding marks from sanding the body filler too. Keep using urethane primer until when you sand you dont see any more of the rattle can you speckled on and then you are ready for paint. Dont use the rattle can epoxy primer or urethane either. Better to have a spray gun. Between every step you have to use cleaner to. Put it in a spray bottle. If you dump it on a rag you just move the dirt around.
 
 
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