Pedal 2 floor ?

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if the pistons are retracting too much it's either air or the residual valve is defective. Is there a reason you did't use a proportional valve for a disk/disk
 
Assuming you tried to adjust the Wilwood proportioning valve on your set up that adjusts line pressure to your rear brakes did that change anything?
 
Assuming you tried to adjust the Wilwood proportioning valve on your set up that adjusts line pressure to your rear brakes did that change anything?
I turned it out fully, giving full pressure to the rear, doesn't fix the take-up issue. Seems to be an excessive amount of play in the rear pads? That's why I was thinking the 2Lb valve is no good , or need a higher pressure one ?
 
After reading through all of this, I would agree that its probably a bad valve or air if its not the proportioning valve. To eliminate it being air in the lines, why not flush the line? Brake fluid is likely cheaper than throwing parts at it. Obviously make sure you don't run the master dry in the process.
 
What style rear pad and calipers? Do they have t*ts on the center of the pads?

Some times you have to screw them out manually and line up the "t*ts" with the slots in the caliper. If not the piston retracts too far.
 
Ok, disassembled rear brakes, found Pistons have numerous depressions to match up to brake pad locater pin. My depressions on piston were not properly "clocked" to the deepest depression. Noticed that the bleeder is not 100% at the top, suspected air trapped at the highest point . Left calipers unbolted and postioned so the bleeders are 100% on the top. Cracked the bleeders the next day, and a few air bubbles came out ! Bolted things back together, rebleed system, Baaaaaaammmm hard pedal !!! Fixed !! So it was a combination of the 2 problems.
 
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