Performer VS Performer RPM on a Mild SBC 355? Windage Tray?

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Sep 1, 2006
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Well, I have been thinking about this for a while. I currently have a 1977 355 Chevy in my Cutlass, and am wondering if it would be beneficial to upgrade from my current Edelbrock Performer intake to a Performer RPM. I want to keep good hood clearance as I like my L69 Camaro dual snorkel air filter housing with a LG4 Monte Carlo lid on it, and my factory aluminum hood. I also run a Quadrajet for a number of reasons, one of which is it's low profile design. Will a Performer RPM still fit under the hood with this combo? I could also sacrifice a little low RPM torque for some top end, as it has almost too much off idle right now, and loves to roast the tires. Is it worth the money to buy a new intake for the extra benefits, or should I just stick with what I have? The engine combo is listed in my sig, but I will list it again here with the complete cam specs. 1977 350 Chevy .030 over with Badger cast flat top 4 eyebrow pistons, cast crank, cast rods, 2 bolt mains, World Products S/R Torquer Heads with 2.02/1.60 valves, Edelbrock TES headers and Y pipe (L69 305 HO model), Comp Cams Magnum roller tip 1.52:1 ratio rockers, 1979 Chevy 350 van Quadrajet with air valve modified to 750 cfm, Comp Cams XE 262H-14 hydraulic flat tappet cam: .464/.470 lift, 262/270 @.006 lift, 218/224 @ .050 lift, 114 deg. LSA, int. open @ 19 BTDC and closes @ 62 ABDC; exhaust opens @ 70 BBDC, closes @ 19 ATDC. Ignition is a GM HEI with a MSD module with a built in rev limiter, MSD plug wires and a ACCELL coil. The compression ratio is approximately 9.5:1 (according to the machine shop that put it together initially). If anyone has a good sim program to put this all in and play with the 2 manifolds, I would appreciate it. My program (Dyno 2000) only has a generic dual plane and no way to account for actual flow bench numbers with intake manifolds.

I am also considering a different oil pan with a windage tray, and am wondering if there is a good one out there that will work without machine work, or using main studs? I was told that I could not install the old factory Z-28 style setup without using main studs and that would throw off the tolerances in the line bore. Is that true? Is there another one that does not require me to touch the mains which also will fit the factory style exhaust crossover between the pan sump and front suspension crossmember? I use the car for corner burning, and would like to add some extra oil control in the corners as well as gaining some power from windage control. I do not have the ground clearance to run a deep sump pan as the car is lowered and the pan would likely smack bottom when I am driving it hard on bumpy roads, over railroad tracks, or speed bumps. Oh, and I also run the factory oil cooler setup including the adapter from a 1989 9C1 police Caprice 350 right now as well. I say this because it drops the oil filter down about 2 inches, and I like to run a C/K pickup oil filter because of it's larger capacity too.
 
My opinion is that you should keep the Performer. Your cams operating range is 1500 - 5500 RPM and the Performer intake is designed to work from idle to 5500 RPM. You heads, cam and intake are a good match and I don't feel that there would be any benefit for you to switch over to the Performer RPM which is designed to work from 1500 - 6500 RPM. I think you have it set up correctly now so I wouldn't mess with it.
 
i don't think you'd notice much of a difference with just the intake swap. however if you retarded the cam a little bit and did the intake that should make a difference. compcams ground it'd XE series advanced to help low end torque, like yours it helps it a little too much on my car.
for an oil pan, check out Canton. they build a couple of different pans with kickouts, trapdoors, and windage trays. mine is a 8qt with k.o.'s, screen type windage tray, crank wiper, 3 trapdoors and a magnetic plug. with the oil cooler adapter it no longer cleared the long style oil filter.
 
I don't think there's any reason to upgrade if you aren't running true duals.

The regular Performer intake is pretty much a stock replacement piece. I would step up to an EPS or an RPM if you plan on running true duals.

I have the EPS intake with a 600 eddy and 3" filter underneath a stock hood on the malibu. No clearance issues. Just use a drop base air cleaner.
 
I have thought about running true duals with an X pipe, but I am in love with my lack of interior resonance as it sits. With no carpet, weatherstripping or sound deadening, all you hear is tire noise and rattles at speed. I dunno, I may think about using the mufflers and tailpipes I have now but changing from the single cat mess to an X pipe and a double hump crossmember in the future. The car has so much torque right now that it is hard to drive it. It requires a lot of restraint, and even when I am trying not to, I still break the tires loose off the line every now and then. I had to drive it in it's current state of disassembly ( an interior consisting of a seat, pedals and a dash) last year for a month, and it was quite an experience! Rain=death wish. Even still, I can't wait to have a wind free day so I can have my neighbor finish MIG welding the floor back together. Then, I have a week or two of perfecting a few small details on the body before paint. After it is put together, I will be delivering pizza with it for a few days--just because I can.
 
Re: Performer VS Performer RPM on a Mild SBC 355? Windage Tr

85 Cutlass Brougham said:
I am also considering a different oil pan with a windage tray, and am wondering if there is a good one out there that will work without machine work, or using main studs? I was told that I could not install the old factory Z-28 style setup without using main studs and that would throw off the tolerances in the line bore. Is that true?
not true at all. the studs actually lessen the main cap " side pull effect" because the the stud keeps the cap concentric when being torqued.

try this, i have one
http://www.jegs.com/p/Milodon/747421/10002/-1/10459

and gm part #3927136 windage tray. stud P/N 14087508

these will fit in a stock gm pan and no one will know the wiser. all made to fit in the stock DZ 302 with 3970010 cast# , large journal 68 and later GM small blocks with a production oil pan.
 
pans

these are 2 diff trays you listed smallblockhero? and attaches to the main stud?
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
I have thought about running true duals with an X pipe, but I am in love with my lack of interior resonance as it sits. With no carpet, weatherstripping or sound deadening, all you hear is tire noise and rattles at speed. I dunno, I may think about using the mufflers and tailpipes I have now but changing from the single cat mess to an X pipe and a double hump crossmember in the future. The car has so much torque right now that it is hard to drive it. It requires a lot of restraint, and even when I am trying not to, I still break the tires loose off the line every now and then. I had to drive it in it's current state of disassembly ( an interior consisting of a seat, pedals and a dash) last year for a month, and it was quite an experience! Rain=death wish. Even still, I can't wait to have a wind free day so I can have my neighbor finish MIG welding the floor back together. Then, I have a week or two of perfecting a few small details on the body before paint. After it is put together, I will be delivering pizza with it for a few days--just because I can.

hahaha my cutlass interior will consist of 2 front seats a shifter and a gauge panel (i think im ditching the stock dash)
Glad to knwo Its as enjoyable as I feel its going to be 😀
 
parts

anybody have anymore info about these oil baffle trays and scrapers?
 
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