Re: Please look at my carb, is not working right why? beermo
First thing I think I’m seeing is a split vacuum cap on ported vacuum port at the front of the carb. It’s probably not the source of all the problems but it isn’t helping anything.
From the looks of it and how long It’s been sitting the first thing I would do is a compression check.....all the tuning in the world isn’t going to fix a sticky valve or stuck rings. Check the plugs as you pull them for signs of fuel or oil fouling.
After you verify you have a good engine to start with, start at the distributor. Pull the cap and rotor check for any carbon tracking in the cap and make sure the rotor has not burned thru the center (used to be a fairly common problem with GM HEIs when a cheap rotor was used.
Verify the mechanical advance turns freely and the vacuum can advances and holds vacuum.
Get some decent wiring looms and either ohm out the pug wires and cut them to the correct length or start with a new set of wires.
I’ve seen that type of corrosion on the outside of AFBs before and USUALLY they are far worse on the inside. Pull the top off and check the inside, if it’s salvageable clean and put a kit in it. Just to be on the safe side throw a new fuel filter on it.
After everything is back together plug the vacuum advance and set the initial timing at around 12 degrees initial and re connect the vacuum. See how it runs and then you can start fine tuning the timing and carb.
By the way what size engine is it......if it’s a 305 don’t expect a whole lot out of it even if everything is in good shape. If you still run into a backfiring problem you may be looking at pulling the timing cover and verifying that the timing marks on the cam/crank were properly lined up when the engine was built. If the builder was the same person that that did the rest of the setup it wouldn’t surprise me to see that wasn’t done right either.
First thing I think I’m seeing is a split vacuum cap on ported vacuum port at the front of the carb. It’s probably not the source of all the problems but it isn’t helping anything.
From the looks of it and how long It’s been sitting the first thing I would do is a compression check.....all the tuning in the world isn’t going to fix a sticky valve or stuck rings. Check the plugs as you pull them for signs of fuel or oil fouling.
After you verify you have a good engine to start with, start at the distributor. Pull the cap and rotor check for any carbon tracking in the cap and make sure the rotor has not burned thru the center (used to be a fairly common problem with GM HEIs when a cheap rotor was used.
Verify the mechanical advance turns freely and the vacuum can advances and holds vacuum.
Get some decent wiring looms and either ohm out the pug wires and cut them to the correct length or start with a new set of wires.
I’ve seen that type of corrosion on the outside of AFBs before and USUALLY they are far worse on the inside. Pull the top off and check the inside, if it’s salvageable clean and put a kit in it. Just to be on the safe side throw a new fuel filter on it.
After everything is back together plug the vacuum advance and set the initial timing at around 12 degrees initial and re connect the vacuum. See how it runs and then you can start fine tuning the timing and carb.
By the way what size engine is it......if it’s a 305 don’t expect a whole lot out of it even if everything is in good shape. If you still run into a backfiring problem you may be looking at pulling the timing cover and verifying that the timing marks on the cam/crank were properly lined up when the engine was built. If the builder was the same person that that did the rest of the setup it wouldn’t surprise me to see that wasn’t done right either.
