Poly lock adjustment?

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I believe they were Scorpion brand, blue anodized, full rollers, and roller tip. I also grabbed the pushrods and felt for play, while tightening the poly lock by hand. I told him if he didn't want to do it while the engine was running he might as well just use a stock jam nut and call it a day. Stubborn is he.
 
I forgot to mention I use a .010 feeler gauge which is 1/4 turn on the lock nut so I tighten it down till there is drag on the feeler gauge, then I turn the nut 3/4 turn and lock it in place. . I find it's easier to find the zero lash with a feeler gauge. GM has come out with a revision on the 1/4 turn described in my previous post. They now say 1/2 to 3/4 turn instead of 1/4 turn after zero valve lash.
 
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"They now say 1/2 to 3/4 turn instead of 1/4 turn after zero valve lash." That would make more sense on a non running engine and that's what I was asking. Thank's Steve.
 
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I hope that works for you, another thing I did was to set up a momentary switch that I hook up to my ford solenoid that is installed to the wheel well so I can bump the engine which is easier than having someone turn the key with me yelling instructions and rude comments. I have a balancer that is marked each 90 degree mark as well as the timing marks.
 
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I have never heard that you can't use roller tips with poly locks. All our circle track engines had roller rockers and poly locks. One our sportsman cars has a Leitch engine that had roller rockers and poly locks, that engine could rev up to 8,500 rpm

http://www.leitchperformanceengines.com/

Slight bit late, but in general roller tip rockers use the nut that is rounded on the bottom for a fulcrum, poly locks are flat. now some may have a conical washer and you can use them, some dont.
 
The car I did the adjustment on was out for a Spring ride. He says it runs GREAT!!! So I said let's go back and do it right this time, with the engine running. Then we can synchronize the carbs, play with the timing, you know, maximize it. He wasn't interested.
 
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