power window (where did i go wrong)

[TODoubleD]

you could use the spare battery to make sure the window motors work. but other then that i would use the battery in the car.

 

[jrm81bu]

And after double checking, the G Body window motors are the same as what i've worked with before. Meaning they are NOT grounded through there bodies or the door. It is grounded through the switch. So if you are gonna use a jumper to try to run it, you will need to use two. Put power to one wire and ground the other, then flip the, to run it the other way.

 

[drogg1]

And after double checking, the G Body window motors are the same as what i've worked with before. Meaning they are NOT grounded through there bodies or the door. It is grounded through the switch. So if you are gonna use a jumper to try to run it, you will need to use two. Put power to one wire and ground the other, then flip the, to run it the other way.

It seems you have had different experience and I do not mean to insult or anything but it looks to me like '83 and earlier models used the grounded through the door motors(the schematic above) while the 84 and later models used the grounded through the switch(reverse polarity) motors. So, his seems to be the later design as I believe his car is an '86.

Here's the schematic I found in the old Haynes manual I have:



The master switch is grounded there in the middle and moving the switch reverses the polarity so the motor sees either +12V or -12V. So I would start by checking to make sure your master switch is grounded. The passenger switch sees that ground through wires that tie it to the master driver side switch so I wouldn't think the problem would be with that switch. Otherwise, as stated above, just make sure you're seeing +12V at the switch and +12V or -12V at the motor. This is assuming you have what I've read is the '84 and up assembly.

 

[jrm81bu]

And after double checking, the G Body window motors are the same as what i've worked with before. Meaning they are NOT grounded through there bodies or the door. It is grounded through the switch. So if you are gonna use a jumper to try to run it, you will need to use two. Put power to one wire and ground the other, then flip the, to run it the other way.

It seems you have had different experience and I do not mean to insult or anything but it looks to me like '83 and earlier models used the grounded through the door motors(the schematic above) while the 84 and later models used the grounded through the switch(reverse polarity) motors. So, his seems to be the later design as I believe his car is an '86.

Here's the schematic I found in the old Haynes manual I have:



The master switch is grounded there in the middle and moving the switch reverses the polarity so the motor sees either +12V or -12V. So I would start by checking to make sure your master switch is grounded. The passenger switch sees that ground through wires that tie it to the master driver side switch so I wouldn't think the problem would be with that switch. Otherwise, as stated above, just make sure you're seeing +12V at the switch and +12V or -12V at the motor. This is assuming you have what I've read is the '84 and up assembly.

That might very well be. I didn't go back in years quite that far. Thanks for the additional info. It would seem in this case anyway that what I stated was relevant, but I shouldn't have made quite the blanket statement without checking all of the years. I just wanted to make sure that the op didn't just throw power at one wire, have the motor not work, and assume it was bad because everyone said it grounded through the body of the motor.

edit-i'm still not 100% sure but i'm still leaning towards all of them using a reverse polarity set up. I went back to 81 and it uses the same motor as an 85 so they have to be wired the same. I also found this.
https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/1232572.pdf

 

[Geed_up_442]

I kicked myself in the *ss today. Gather my multimeter, alligator clips, spare wire, spare battery, this is the second day I did this but the first day I made it to the shop with everything. I set up everything and start to disconnect the lock and window harness and notice a spare black wire with a ring connector loosely hanging of the window harness. Windows work and glass is in. Again thank you fellas I'm that much closer to bringing it home.