BUILD THREAD Project long time coming

[Supercharged111]

Not sure when I'm going out again. Brakes were definitely getting a workout. Having a 25 minute run time will definitely put everything to a test. One issue I had was the ps started to overheat. Started getting a little whining from the pump around the 18 minute mark. Going to put a cooler on the return line and that may fix it. Engine never got over 196° so I'm hoping I won't need to mess with that. Need to adjust my rear upper control arms to center the rear end and stop the tire rub. Hopefully with 14" rotors and 6 piston calipers on the front, and 12" rear rotors that'll be enough. I can't fit anything bigger.

That's plenty of rotor, it's going to be pad selection going forward and keeping the fluid fresh. And yeah, I run a trans cooler for the PS. 100% need it for that sort of activity. Expect the things that give you trouble to evolve as your pace increases. And I'm guessing you've seen this thread, but if not:

Asphalt_Gundam - G body that turns

Asphalt_Gundam - G body that turns

grassrootsmotorsports.com

He sure breaks a lot of crap.

 

[Malibu795]

That's plenty of rotor, it's going to be pad selection going forward and keeping the fluid fresh. And yeah, I run a trans cooler for the PS. 100% need it for that sort of activity. Expect the things that give you trouble to evolve as your pace increases. And I'm guessing you've seen this thread, but if not:

Asphalt_Gundam - G body that turns

Asphalt_Gundam - G body that turns

grassrootsmotorsports.com

He sure breaks a lot of crap.

Cody has for sure, but also he hasn't followed main stream stuff either, it's been R&D for a lot with him.
A lot would have thrown in the towel long time ago.
And he's still running Olds engines which I give him a lot of props for

 

[scoti]

That's plenty of rotor, it's going to be pad selection going forward and keeping the fluid fresh. And yeah, I run a trans cooler for the PS. 100% need it for that sort of activity. Expect the things that give you trouble to evolve as your pace increases. And I'm guessing you've seen this thread, but if not:

Asphalt_Gundam - G body that turns

Asphalt_Gundam - G body that turns

grassrootsmotorsports.com

He sure breaks a lot of crap.

He does. I communicate w/Cody fairly regularly.

 

[Streetbu]

Drove it to work today. No more tire rub from the rear. Still have to trim a little of the back seat delete kit because the roll bar hits on it or the original stamped steel seat frame backing and rattles like crazy over bumps.
In other news, my new wheels that have the same exact offset and size as my old wheels, hit on my front upper A arms when I'm turning past half way. 🤬 The barrel of the wheel is shaped differently. Scott that I raced with had the same exact issue and had to switch to differently shaped upper A arms and that fixed it. So UMI had 10% off for the 4th and my credit card loves being beat up, so here we are. FML Not sure when I'll get these installed. I know it's going to be a PITA with the headers but I'll have them when I'm ready.

 

[Malibu795]

I installed UMI uppers/lowers with a big block Chevy in the engine bay.... Shouldn't be an issue

 

[Tony1968]

Drove it to work today. No more tire rub from the rear. Still have to trim a little of the back seat delete kit because the roll bar hits on it or the original stamped steel seat frame backing and rattles like crazy over bumps.
In other news, my new wheels that have the same exact offset and size as my old wheels, hit on my front upper A arms when I'm turning past half way. 🤬 The barrel of the wheel is shaped differently. Scott that I raced with had the same exact issue and had to switch to differently shaped upper A arms and that fixed it. So UMI had 10% off for the 4th and my credit card loves being beat up, so here we are. FML Not sure when I'll get these installed. I know it's going to be a PITA with the headers but I'll have them when I'm ready.
View attachment 242277

I have those uppers and they are quite nice. Install shouldn't be tough. Alignment might be a different story 🤔

 

[Streetbu]

Haven't updated this lately. Been to a couple of cruise ins, Syracuse Nationals, and another show today. The RideTech front sway bar links broke. Had been warned about this so I didn't want to just use the same parts and end up with the same problem in another few months. Little digging & I came up with some steel replacements, instead of the pot metal/aluminum ones the swap bar originally had.

Still collecting parts for the next engine. Hoping to get that assembled & installed this winter, along with a few other repairs and upgrades. Hopefully I can hit up the last big car show of the year later this month, and get some gorgeous fall drives in as well.

Dyno'd it again, same exact hp as last time, even leaned out and with 8° more timing. Very disappointed. Oh well.

Also broke down, ended up being the original crank sensor from 2003. Luckily a simple, cheap fix and was only 2 miles from home.

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

Are those pieces you used on your end links the ball joints from McMaster Carr? I'd actually considered making some end links using those and am interested in seeing how this works out

 

[Streetbu]

Are those pieces you used on your end links the ball joints from McMaster Carr? I'd actually considered making some end links using those and am interested in seeing how this works out

Yes they are. And cheap too, especially for McMaster. I know they will work, the question is for how long. When you think of how a sway bar functions, it's always placing one of those bottom links in tension, the other bottom joint would be compression. That style joint is not meant to work in tension. We shall see. I have another option to redesign the links, but took the easy route this time in the hopes they will last.

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

Yes they are. And cheap too, especially for McMaster. I know they will work, the question is for how long. When you think of how a sway bar functions, it's always placing one of those bottom links in tension, the other bottom joint would be compression. That style joint is not meant to work in tension. We shall see. I have another option to redesign the links, but took the easy route this time in the hopes they will last.

Right on. I wondered if they'd withstand the repeated abuse from a thick sway bar so I also looked for alternatives. I found them in the ball-joint style links from Proforged, Moog, and Suspension Dudes- part numbers 113-10272 & K80337 are for a 2006 Ford F-150 although some S-10 guys are trying them out. There's also the K80894 for the Dodge Ram.



Another contender is the Kryptonite KRSAEL02 for Dodge Duramax which is essentially the Spohn SEL-19-409-F4 or SEL-416. It costs more than Spohn too.



I also considered using turnbuckles but would hate to replace them constantly due to wear. What are your thoughts on those?