Stock pulley, so 7 or 8 pounds probably.
That will give me room to add more power if I want, by changing the pulley
BUILD THREAD Project long time coming
- Thread starter Streetbu
- Start date
That will give me room to add more power if I want, by changing the pulley
So I had our boat taking up most of the garage since fall time. My buddy let me store the Malibu at his closed shop for the winter. Finally got the boat out of the garage, and Friday on the way home from work, stopped at my buddies and drove the Malibu home. Roads were dry, I'm not too concerned about salt as long as the roads were dry. This is never going to be a true show car.
Got the car home and started the tear down process to get the old engine out today.
This is as far as I made it. My back doesn't feel the best so I'll call this good for now and hopefully finish pulling it next weekend.
I guess we could call this version Barney 3.0 🤣
Got the car home and started the tear down process to get the old engine out today.
This is as far as I made it. My back doesn't feel the best so I'll call this good for now and hopefully finish pulling it next weekend.
I guess we could call this version Barney 3.0 🤣
Old engine is out! Now to clean up my mess, send the transmission out for a rebuild to Texas Drivetrain Performance, and maybe detail the engine bay a little.
Transmission is ready to be picked up... just waiting on the trucker to show up
I sold the old engine and the guy just picked it up and paid for it.
Which is good because Texas Drivetrain called and gave me some bad news. I needed more parts than just a standard rebuild. Input shaft, secondary shaft, and 4th gear. So there goes all the money from the engine. FML oh well, they never said building a hot rod was cheap or easy...
So now i can clean my shop up and sort thru everything while waiting for the transmission to be finished and shipped back.
Which is good because Texas Drivetrain called and gave me some bad news. I needed more parts than just a standard rebuild. Input shaft, secondary shaft, and 4th gear. So there goes all the money from the engine. FML oh well, they never said building a hot rod was cheap or easy...
So now i can clean my shop up and sort thru everything while waiting for the transmission to be finished and shipped back.
Input shaft is 4th gear. What are they calling the secondary shaft? Because the output/main shaft and 5/6 driven gear are common things that need replaced, but TD can weld and remachine the shaft (and maybe the gear too?) for less than a new shaft. If they're calling the counter/cluster gear the secondary shaft then that's a bummer because those aren't cheap.
Well I probaby messed up what he told me. I was inside a cleanroom repairing some equipment and couldn't hear that well. All I know is he said 4th gear was blue and they could reassemble with the existing parts but wouldn't provide any warranty. Given that I'm going to have a blower on it next year, I didn't want to mess around.
I'm so over doing things twice or more.... The bill for the rebuild just ate all of the engine sale proceeds, plus another $400 🤯
I'm anxiously awaiting spring because I have a couple of mowers I can sell and help recover some $. That's a little side gig I do to help fund my car habit.
I'm so over doing things twice or more.... The bill for the rebuild just ate all of the engine sale proceeds, plus another $400 🤯
I'm anxiously awaiting spring because I have a couple of mowers I can sell and help recover some $. That's a little side gig I do to help fund my car habit.
Now is a good time to dive into some of my other projects for the car.
So the shape of the RideTech upper a-arms is MUCH different than the UMI uppers. This caused some minor contact with the new wheels just before full lock. Plus the UMI arms have rod ends so hopefully I won't need to use any shims in order to hit the alignment specs... one side done, the other to go.
So the shape of the RideTech upper a-arms is MUCH different than the UMI uppers. This caused some minor contact with the new wheels just before full lock. Plus the UMI arms have rod ends so hopefully I won't need to use any shims in order to hit the alignment specs... one side done, the other to go.
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One step forward, two steps back.
Today I was going to install my new RideTech rear coilovers. Sat down, read thru the instructions and started assembly. Once it came time to compress the spring and get the retaining clip on, I realized they sent me the wrong shocks. They are supposed to have an eyelet at both ends, and these have a stud on the top. Of course they are closed on the weekends, and I had a h3ll of a time getting ahold of them when I ordered these. I guess that should've been my sign. I'll have to start dealing with that on Monday I guess.
Now onto yet another RideTech issue. I bought their front sway bar, which is no longer in production, from a friend online. The bar itself seems to be great, the end links, not so much. They used swivel style balljoints on both ends. Those are not meant to be used in tension, but rather compression. This causes the lower joint to constantly fail.
This is my fix. G body poly end link bushings on the a arm side, and a heavy duty rod end with included stud on the sway bar end. I reused the RideTech aluminum spacer and a M10x1.5 x 130mm bolt going thru it all and threaded into the rod end. I know the lower side won't fail now 🤣 Hopefully this solves this issue once and for all.
I also picked up my parts from the powdercoater. Two brackets for the belt drive, and my old transmission crossmember. Had them all done splatter black.
The parts fairy showed up again. Since I sold some of the old parts with my old engine, I needed to replace a few. One being the throttle body. The old one was an Amazon special and worked fine, other than the horrible IAC whistle when starting cold which they are known for. Decided since I hopefully won't be doing any of this again, to get a decent one.
Also I needed a new balancer to line up with the Corvette accessories, and a crank pinning kit while I'm at it.
New GM pilot bearing, and some stainless hardware for the intake.
Today I was going to install my new RideTech rear coilovers. Sat down, read thru the instructions and started assembly. Once it came time to compress the spring and get the retaining clip on, I realized they sent me the wrong shocks. They are supposed to have an eyelet at both ends, and these have a stud on the top. Of course they are closed on the weekends, and I had a h3ll of a time getting ahold of them when I ordered these. I guess that should've been my sign. I'll have to start dealing with that on Monday I guess.
Now onto yet another RideTech issue. I bought their front sway bar, which is no longer in production, from a friend online. The bar itself seems to be great, the end links, not so much. They used swivel style balljoints on both ends. Those are not meant to be used in tension, but rather compression. This causes the lower joint to constantly fail.
This is my fix. G body poly end link bushings on the a arm side, and a heavy duty rod end with included stud on the sway bar end. I reused the RideTech aluminum spacer and a M10x1.5 x 130mm bolt going thru it all and threaded into the rod end. I know the lower side won't fail now 🤣 Hopefully this solves this issue once and for all.
I also picked up my parts from the powdercoater. Two brackets for the belt drive, and my old transmission crossmember. Had them all done splatter black.
The parts fairy showed up again. Since I sold some of the old parts with my old engine, I needed to replace a few. One being the throttle body. The old one was an Amazon special and worked fine, other than the horrible IAC whistle when starting cold which they are known for. Decided since I hopefully won't be doing any of this again, to get a decent one.
Also I needed a new balancer to line up with the Corvette accessories, and a crank pinning kit while I'm at it.
New GM pilot bearing, and some stainless hardware for the intake.
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You sure there isn't a thread on adapter in there to get you what you need on those coilovers?
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