442 Project: Looks can be deceiving

[rogue_ryder]

In a truck I imagine the large radiator will help keep it much cooler! Should be stump puller with the planned cam too. The Autotec and Mahle are the same 4032 alloy which is probably why Autotec called for the tight piston to wall. Much better than the cheap forged pistons from Speed Pro.

I'm considering salvaging some of the parts I used in the 403 (crank, cam, lifters) and using them in the 350 for a build similar to the 358 you're building. Still looking at another hefty machine shop bill and $1200 for those Mahle Pistons and the new Scat rods. After putting 1000 miles on this 350, I'm just not happy with it compared to how good the 403 was (other than it running hot and getting ruined), I don't know what cam they put in it but it's too big for the low compression pistons they used (dished .030 over speed pros).

 

[olds307 and 403]

My 424 probably won't crack 300+ HP but with the Performer intake, 454 TBI, a 454 factory Qjet to TBI 1" tall adapter, the #6 heads with 2.07"/1.56" valves with bowls opened, Sanderson shorties and dual exhaust with the small cam should mean serious low end torque, none of the 3500 rpm and up BS. The 4L60E is the biggest deterrent on the 1500, so a 2500 is preferred for the 4L80E and 9.5" axles. Yeah, the 8 to 1 you are currently at limits your 350 a lot.

 

[rogue_ryder]

So no progress on a replacement engine with some real power. But I just finally accomplished the last major system repair. AC!

Out with the old compressor, accumulator and orifice tube (that was a B* to get out) and in with all new AC Delco parts and O-Rings. Yeah I flushed the lines condenser and evaporator REAL good and put it back together and pulled a vacuum for a couple hours. You sea level guys are probably thinking I have a leak but at ~7,000’ that’s all the vacuum you’re going to pull.

WTF is the duster for? No; I’m not a huffer that stuff is actually a refrigerant, R152a! Works at a low system pressure and much more compatible with these old systems than R134a and it’s CHEAP compared to R12 and you can DIY. I looked up the charge equivalent to R12 and it was ~25oz of this compared to the 3.5# of R12. I used 8oz of Ester oil vs mineral (supposed to be more compatible with this than mineral) With that amount of charge the system works perfect and was right in the sweet spot on the gauge (well according to the internet anyway).

I wish I knew about the 152 years ago. Now that it’s fall I don’t really need the AC. But this was so much cheaper than doing a conversion to R134a (the right way) it’s not even funny. It might not have needed a compressor but it was going to be impossible to flush out the old one and the new one looks good under there. Since there was some pressure in the system I figured the condenser and evaporator were probably still good (and they were), saved some bucks not replacing those AND I didn’t have to to take a chance on some aftermarket stuff that at the moment so much aftermarket stuff lately is questionable when it comes to the quality.