Quadrajet

[DoubleV]

I made a detailed post about what you need and don't need when running on the computer years ago on this forum so you may want to do a search and try to locate that. I just don't have it in me to make a long detailed post right now....

If you were to de co
computerize your car, get a qjet, not an Edelbrock carb....

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Ok so what does the carburetor and computer need to run correctly? Because I’m trying to get this car running properly. I got it with new motor but I had to finish putting it together. I’m really considering throwing a edelbrock carb and vac advance distributator. Simplify all these issues.

The computer system requires everything to work right. The blue connector is for your fuel air mixture control solenoid. Unplugging it causes the mixture to go full pig rich. So if your car runs better that way, it indicates you have a bad vacuum leak causing your engine to run lean. Plug the blue connector back in, they connect a analog dwell meter to the green connector and see what your M/C duty cycle dwell is, probably rich to offset a lean problem. Car computers in general including modern OBD2 can't handle vacuum leaks well.

Switching to non computer can easily open a can of worms and further compound your problems. Rememger, the computer will not work right if the engibe has an underlying problem like vacuum leaks or low CR, etc.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Looking back at the pics I see lots of issues with this thing. The choke is actually a hot air type, so it may be sluggish from rust. The EGR is not hooked up. There is what looks to be a broken thermal vacuum switch on the water crossover, so certain functions are disabled. There is a red 10 gauge wire and weatherpack connector just laying on the side- what is that for? And I especially don't like the rubber fuel line snaking around the front of the motor. YIKES! And then there is the indicated vacuum leak or internal carb issue. I would find and fix everything wrong/missing and only then make a determination of the carburetor. Then if it needs a rebuild you will be back in business. But if you want to avoid all that and take the "easy" way out then you would need a comparable non-computer Q-jet from an earlier model. Don't waste your time trying to force an aftermarket carb to work- it will drive you crazy. You will also need a non-computer HEI from a similar earlier motor. Try finding those and if you can get them reasonably cheap then I say go for it.

 

[DoubleV]

The red plug is for the anti dieseling solenoid I believe. It ain't hooked up ( it's totally not needed anyway... ) because the Idle Load Compensator isn't on the carb, hence the hokey throttle return spring setup since the ILC also serves as mounting point for the return spring.

Fuel bowl vent to vapor cannister isn't hooked up either.

 

[Jomeogarcia]

Looking back at the pics I see lots of issues with this thing. The choke is actually a hot air type, so it may be sluggish from rust. The EGR is not hooked up. There is what looks to be a broken thermal vacuum switch on the water crossover, so certain functions are disabled. There is a red 10 gauge wire and weatherpack connector just laying on the side- what is that for? And I especially don't like the rubber fuel line snaking around the front of the motor. YIKES! And then there is the indicated vacuum leak or internal carb issue. I would find and fix everything wrong/missing and only then make a determination of the carburetor. Then if it needs a rebuild you will be back in business. But if you want to avoid all that and take the "easy" way out then you would need a comparable non-computer Q-jet from an earlier model. Don't waste your time trying to force an aftermarket carb to work- it will drive you crazy. You will also need a non-computer HEI from a similar earlier motor. Try finding those and if you can get them reasonably cheap then I say go for it.

Yes sir. That is my issue. I bought this car with a motor halfway installed. Everything was taken apart and I’m trying to got everything hooked up the way it needs to go except the smog stuff. I bought the repair manual but it doesn’t go into detail on how all those plugs and missing things go. So what I want is to only put together the bare necessities to get it running. Ps I don’t see why everyone hates the elderbrock carbs? I feel more comfortable working with those but want to spend as little as possible to get this car running right.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

In matters like this, a forum has very limited ability to help you as someone with knowledge needs to inspect your car in person to see what has been done to it. Online photos only gives us a small picture. I can see you have two open ports which will cause major vacuum leaks and an incorrectly setup throttle return spring. Odd thing is some of the vacuum nipples look brand new, so the carb may have been worked on but again we have no clue what was done to it.

 

[Bonnewagon]

It's not that anyone "hates" the Edelbrock or Holley carbs, far from it. But they have their place and a bone stock 307 is not that place. The reason for that is the factory specified a Rochester carburetor for that particular engine and that is what belongs there. Much research and testing went into the choosing of that specific carburetor for that engine. Once you start changing things then the weight is on you to choose the correct replacement. If you know your way around carburetors and the specific needs of your engine then by all means go ahead and have at it. I just don't want you to spend money on something that may have worked for someone else that has no relation at all to your situation. This site is full of topics that begin "I yanked all the computer and emissions stuff off my car and now it runs like crap. HELP! ". As a matter of fact, if it was my car, and I was deleting the CCC, I would look for an older non-CCC two barrel Dual-Jet carb and intake. Why? Because it is a small engine with dead rear gears that doesn't even need a Q-Jet. A Dual-Jet would be a perfect match and give better performance. I'm sure there is a small cfm Holley that would work great too, but I am not qualified to recommend which one.