Question for Experienced Engine Builders

[monte olrac]

i would have that crankshaft polished out, it is normally 55-65 bucks, and you can still use std. bearing diameter. but i will say this i know you want to save money BUT you dont save money when you take short cuts or have to take your engine out again.

 

[joesregalproject]

i would have that crankshaft polished out, it is normally 55-65 bucks, and you can still use std. bearing diameter. but i will say this i know you want to save money BUT you dont save money when you take short cuts or have to take your engine out again.

I agree completely. I've taken shortcuts before and learned the hard way. In the end, it got fixed correctly and I learned. I will definitely get the crank polished. Like I said its in pretty good condition already, only very minor scoring and I can't even feel the scoring with my fingernail. The engine was sold as a running engine but being me, I can't leave well enough alone, so I decided I would regasket it at first, and now I've decided to rebuild it and hop it up a little. It was really clean inside as far as sludge and deposits so I believe it was pretty well taken care of.

 

[gbondo57]

Also, look for discoloration on the big end of connecting rods. would be a spun bearing. Should be able to see hone marks in bore. Good luck.

 

[MrSony]

Good to see you got the booster plate and the oil pump rebuild kit. Make sure the gear-to-wall clearance is good (don't remember, TA or google should have the answer) and the face of the gear to the rim of the pump housing clearance is good. You don't have to use the booster plate, but if the filter housing is all scored and you have the new gears might as well. Pack the pump cavity FULL even overfull of Vaseline (dissolved in oil during break-in) and push the gears into the goo. Scrape off the excess and clean gasket surface. Oil pump won't suck air upon first startup. Buicks like main/rod bearing clearances no bigger than 0.002. You can be a little looser, but do NOT build to SBC chevy specs. Way too loose. Also get that Felpro gasket kit. Discard the rope rear main seal. A neoprene one from a ford 460 fits like a glove. From the factory most Buicks didn't use exhaust manifold gaskets and were fine. Just make sure the surfaces are true and flush. NO one that I know of makes a drop in set of headers for a 350 Buick in a gbody because the last year for it was in 1980 in the stubby a body cars. Manifolds will be fine unless you are over 350-375 hp. TA sells the downpipes for 115 a pair 2.5 inch and fit A/G bodies. TA also makes a stock type balancer for 250$ vs the 500$ SFI balancer. They also have pretty nice HEI's. You can probably talk them into giving you a custom curve if you tell em your goals and parts combo. Get some new rocker buttons as well (or the entire assembly if yours are in bad shape) Get TWO bags of buttons if you decide to reuse the rockers and shafts. There are only 16 per bag and parts stores don't carry them anymore. One's from a V6 and Turbo GN V6 are the same. ARP Makes head studs, and the 74/75 blocks switches to cap screws instead of studs which are more desireable since they're stronger. A 200r4/TH350 with a ~2000-2200 stall and a 3.23 and higher posi will be wonderful. True dual 2.5 exhaust (TA's smallest downpipes are 2.5 inch). TA makes a good intake and they have a newly released open/single plane intake vs the tride and true dual plane. Get a good rebuilt Q-Jet (Everyday Performance is a good place. Didn't have a core and the dude had one off a '78 Buick 350 non CC. 100% redone minus the show quality finish for 333$ Qjets are application and engine specific try ad get one from a Buick). Use 5w30 or 5w40 if you can. INSTALL AN OIL PRESSURE GAUGE. I cannot stress that enough. Whew, I think that's enough for today.