Question for Experienced Engine Builders

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I personally would side with the machine shop on this if you want the engine to last (of coarse they make mistakes also) but with lack of experience and most likely lacking the proper tools to check everything correctly I feel the money you might save could cost you in the long run.

X2! I'd rather know everything was mic'd and properly prepped rather than relying on plastic gauge if I could. A couple hundred bucks is money well spent on the bottom end IMO.
 
Make sure the clearances are where they need to be on the case to oil pump gears. Isn't there one passage Buick builder's enlarge? Measure everything if you can, how do the cylinders look? Good luck.
 
If your on the cheap - why don't you just go with a re-ring kit??

Agreed.

Why do you want to bore it?

Not a buick guy so I don't know if they are prone to cylinder wear problems, but I wouldn't bore any engine unless it absolutely needed it....
 
I have never built a Buick but remember hearing about oiling issues with them. Some very good info posted with the link.

the oil pump sits in the front of the engine and has to pull the oil from the crankcase and then lube the engine. It's easy for the passages to fill up with sludge if you don't keep the oil clean.

2012-02-25_190028_1968_buick_400_eng_oiling_filter_cut_away.gif
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'm well aware of all the oiling issues Buicks are known for and I've already got the oil pump rebuild kit from TA Performance, their 5/8 pick up tube, their adjustable oil pressure regulator, and their booster plate.

I don't want to just re-ring because I don't want to use my old low-compression pistons. Also my cylinders do I have a noticeable lip in them that I'd like to eliminate and be 100% certain the cylinders are straight and true. I'm going to be using TA Performance 10:1 vs my old ~8.5:1 stockers.
 
It's going to be your call but if I were going that far the block needs to be cleaned with the plugs & cam bearings removed. Slight scoring - have the crank checked and polished at the least. Hanging new pistons - have the rods reconditioned.
 
It's going to be your call but if I were going that far the block needs to be cleaned with the plugs & cam bearings removed. Slight scoring - have the crank checked and polished at the least. Hanging new pistons - have the rods reconditioned.

Plugs are already removed and I am definitely going to have the cam bearings replaced. I will get the crank checked and polished. I was hoping I wouldn't have to recondition the rods but if it is absolutely necessary I will. I'm on a budget, but I want this done correctly, AKA I don't want to do this job twice. So if I have to take longer than expected to be able to afford all the machine work, I will.
 
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