rather super irritated

Status
Not open for further replies.
Have you guys heard of this company?

When I had my 2000 Sierra with a 4.8, it had a couple broken bolts and I used the bracket to retain the rear most at the firewall. Where it's a nightmare to work on.

It worked great and I was back to running without an exhaust leak in under 30 minutes.

It also appears Dorman is making some now as well.

Just another option for you guys.

 
I have the Dorman Kit in my 2500HD, been working for years.

Factory ones over time honestly get work hardened so to speak with the loaded stress on them from the heat expansion and contraction, pops them right off. Aftermarket ones are cheap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 64nailhead
After re-reading this thread, if you can't get into the area that you need to weld onto or you don't have the skill set or tools to complete the welding, then just yank the head and give to someone to get the bolts out.

It can sound like a daunting task for those that hasn't dove into an LS, but it isn't - not even remotely. Every part you take off is re-useable, including TTY head bolts and head gasket. You'll need to buy some coolant and I would recommend an oil change along with a 6 pack of brake clean. If the OP was messing with a truck, SUV or similar, then the head is off and back on in 3hours for the experienced guy, but definitely less than a day if you're willing to throw the old traditions into the trash. By old traditions I mean have to have new gaskets, surfaces have to be clean enough to eat off from, etc.

The lack of china wall and timing reset to deal with makes this a snap.
 
Head gasket on it's own is not, need to spray it with the copper spray. Given a pack of 2 is $50 or so, I'd get the new Gasket.

Higher mileage engine if you pull the Heads I would do Lifters. Head Bolts are re-useable in a pinch, but again, $50 kit...
 
Look at it this way. If they came out easy, they'd probably be bringing the aluminum threads out with them.
 
  • Wow
  • Like
Reactions: doood and Tony1968
Look at it this way. If they came out easy, they'd probably be bringing the aluminum threads out with them.

Just venting:

How much more would it have cost GM to use something other than mild steel for the LS header bolts? Kill those aholes that didn't use a better base metal; most came out with a bit of torch on the aluminum, but GODDAMN 3 broken? I thought I was the man (bad *ss) for reversing-out the first of three broken header bolts, before I subsequently snapped three drill bits and broke off a tap in the head... Yeah, I'm pissed, but the fall-back position is drilling it out way oversized and threading an insert into aluminum, so I should get over it, right? It'll be ok when I attack it again next week, right? BTW one of those header bolts was snapped before the junkyard pick. Grrrr. Listen, I'm an office worker that is trying to build a respectable g-body: it only gets worse from here... am I right? Valentines day? Sacrificed $100 to please the gods - would really feel warm and fuzzy if these bolts came out.
My son just bought his 1st vehicle... had 4 broken exhaust manifold bolts. Bought a Lisle kit and a milwaukee 90° drill in preparation. Good idea but it still won't get the bolts closest to the firewall out. Just mig welded the bolts longer and used a stud extractor.
 
Wait...did you not know that those OEM head bolts are torque-to-yield? Exhaust manifold bolts are yield-to-torque?
torque specs say 11 ftlb first pass, 18 ftlb second pass.

I decided to turn in the junkyard 5.3l as a core; I kinda wanted to do that from the moment I bought it from Mr. Sketchy's Chop Shop in North Philly. I coulda pulled the head and had a machine shop extract the, uh, extractors, but might as well refurbish the heads if they are off, and why trust the rings at that point? I was having trouble limiting scope and Biden's money was burning a hole in my pocket. I'm expecting to receive the rebuilt 5.3l in mid-April, but I understand ATK/VEGE (Mexico) is having trouble filling orders for this long block. I have a new set of OEM header bolts with cast iron Hooker headers. I'm significantly over budget, but this is my first build and the only thing that is going to be questionable in the drivetrain is the 7.5" rear. If all goes well, I'll build a cheap g-body for someone else one day - lord knows I got the tools now.
 
I had 1 broken on each head. one came out easily welding a nut on it. the other was impossible and i just gave up and decided on something like this to see if it might work. i will let you know when i get it running how well it worked
 
  • Like
Reactions: melloelky
Have you guys heard of this company?

When I had my 2000 Sierra with a 4.8, it had a couple broken bolts and I used the bracket to retain the rear most at the firewall. Where it's a nightmare to work on.

It worked great and I was back to running without an exhaust leak in under 30 minutes.

It also appears Dorman is making some now as well.

Just another option for you guys.


You beat me to it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor