Removing rust from sheet metal with KBS Rust Blaster

[tobyp]

I am sticking to their rust blast because it plain works great. I picked up some rust seal which is supposed to be the cats meow and am currently working on stripping my inner fenders to bare metal, rust blast to etch and then apply the rust seal black satin paint. Ill keep everyone posted on the results. I know they are very stong with the two products I mentioned.

 

[Burnhard]

Why not just sandblast. When you sandblast you know you have taken care of the rust. Find a shop you can work with one that does resto work.A good sandblaster can strip metal with out warping, as soon as it is striped it should go in the booth for epoxy primer. Playing with these chemiclas is a waste of time and money.Do it once do it right and be done with it. They can remove rust by blasting with sand,glass or a hybrid mix blast media. By farming out sandblasting and epoxy priming to the same shop you save time and money.If the sandblasting company does not spray primer, they usually work closely with body shops in there area that give good package deals.

 

[billyjack]

Thanks for the review of Rust Blast. Will definitely give it a try.
I've used KBS, POR-15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator on various areas of my Camino. POR-15's products flow better when applied by brush, but I truly like KBS for its ability to accept topcoats. You can lay on a mist coat of color when the coating is tacky, then apply final coats when it's cured with excellent adhesion. POR-15 requires you use their binder between the coating and finish painting, adding an extra step as well as considerable expense.

Bill

 

[G-Body_Vet]

Why not just sandblast. When you sandblast you know you have taken care of the rust. Find a shop you can work with one that does resto work.A good sandblaster can strip metal with out warping, as soon as it is striped it should go in the booth for epoxy primer. Playing with these chemiclas is a waste of time and money.Do it once do it right and be done with it. They can remove rust by blasting with sand,glass or a hybrid mix blast media. By farming out sandblasting and epoxy priming to the same shop you save time and money.If the sandblasting company does not spray primer, they usually work closely with body shops in there area that give good package deals.

I blast anything will that fit in a cabinet. As for the frame or a suspended car body (that would cost a lot to farm out), I use the rust blast AFTER I've de-scaled/wirewheeled any flakey rust. I did my entire frame in KBS. I like it better than POR-15 and RustBullet because I've used both.

If anyone is thinking about using Rust Blast it's best to remove as much existing rust as possible because it cuts the waiting time down on the phosphating process. The better your prep, the better the results. The Aqua Kleen works great too. I use that to remove contaminants from parts before powder coating.

 

[Burnhard]

In my area you can have your whole car blasted for $1500. Then for another $1200 you get epoxy primer and all the frame and suspension parts painted with satin black. All body parts are in epoxy as well. So for $2600 you have show quality work and you have removed all the rust. You also save a sh*t load of time.

 

[tobyp]

not impressed with the Rust Seal product at all. I am so glad I painted the inside of the inner fender with teh rust seal. Not only did it fish eye, it streaked, did not self level, produced some sort of bubbling, and it is Gloss Black not Satin!!!! So I will be meeting with the folks at SEMA show to tell them how bad it performed for me.

 

[Burnhard]

not impressed with the Rust Seal product at all. I am so glad I painted the inside of the inner fender with teh rust seal. Not only did it fish eye, it streaked, did not self level, produced some sort of bubbling, and it is Gloss Black not Satin!!!! So I will be meeting with the folks at SEMA show to tell them how bad it performed for me.

Not to be negative do it your self automotive paint products/rust remover/rust sealer are a waste of time and money. These are what I call the half *ss product line for the first time car builder . Sandblast and paint with a quality epoxy and top coat. Not done in your home garage/work shop but in a paint booth,this is the foundation of a good restoration.

gloss black/ satin black/ flat black

 

[pontiacgp]

not impressed with the Rust Seal product at all. I am so glad I painted the inside of the inner fender with teh rust seal. Not only did it fish eye, it streaked, did not self level, produced some sort of bubbling, and it is Gloss Black not Satin!!!! So I will be meeting with the folks at SEMA show to tell them how bad it performed for me.

Not to be negative do it your self automotive paint products/rust remover/rust sealer are a waste of time and money.These are what I call the half *ss product line.Sandblast and paint with a quality epoxy and top coat.

gloss black satin black flat black

X2....and the manufacturer of the product will say that the fisheyes are caused by the surface not being cleaned properly, the streaking is caused by inadequate mixing of the product; bubbling was caused by moisture and the self levelling was caused by improper preparation and application.