Also, I finally got this thing off, so I think I'm finished. I'm going to leave the spider tubes on the manifilds because I'm afraid I'll be opening a can of worms by messing with those 30 year old bolts. I just have the top ends plugged. Eventually I'll either get new manifolds or a new motor all together. Maybe after I'm done with college.
I think on mine the previous owner cut off the ends of the tubes flush with the fittings that go into the exhaust manifold instead of attempting to remove them and just plugged them there for a cleaner look that having the tubes coming out of them and my 86' Regal with a 307 did not set off the check engine light when I removed the air pump, but every other bit of emissions are still on there
I beleive the A.I.R. system only is active during the warm up period to get the cat to operating temp. This system is similar to my old 95 Vw Vr6 - it had an electric air pump that connected to the head exhaust ports and it only ran a minute during the warm up. The bottom line is it does very little to hurt performance - the exhaust manifold already kills HP.
I beleive the A.I.R. system only is active during the warm up period to get the cat to operating temp. This system is similar to my old 95 Vw Vr6 - it had an electric air pump that connected to the head exhaust ports and it only ran a minute during the warm up. The bottom line is it does very little to hurt performance - the exhaust manifold already kills HP.
Just a disclaimer bro, I'm not trying to improve performance lol. I doubt I will notice any difference in driving. I just want a cleaner look under the hood, and if by chance I end up getting headers or new manifolds, I want them to be easier to get to.
Just a disclaimer bro, I'm not trying to improve performance lol. I doubt I will notice any difference in driving. I just want a cleaner look under the hood, and if by chance I end up getting headers or new manifolds, I want them to be easier to get to.
🙂 No prob..I was trying to explain there are cleaner ways manufacturers design the same emission device function.
I agree - it's a lot of crap load of piping that covers the engine that does little but gets in the way, big time. I'd like to remove things as well but there can be a big fine for tampering with emissions around my area.
🙂 No prob..I was trying to explain there are cleaner ways manufacturers design the same emission device function.
I agree - it's a lot of crap load of piping that covers the engine that does little but gets in the way, big time. I'd like to remove things as well but there can be a big fine for tampering with emissions around my area.
Cool, I appreciate the gesture, boss. I'm praying that I did everything right and sealed up the vacuum lines correctly. I've yet to drive the car. I have the battery out right now because the tray was really rusted, so I wore brushed it and painted it and I'm waiting for that to dry. I'll take her for a spin later tonight.
Couple of the wagons I owned had the AIR manifolds rotted off...I cut the tubes off at the fittings and used a MIG welder to weld the holes shut in what was left of the tube nut that screwed into the exhaust manifolds
I'm not trying to make a race car out of a 305 lol. I just want to remove some clutter. And as for that check engine code you were referring too... does anyone know where DMV plugs in their computer to the car to check all that stuff? I don't remember them doing it to my car last time I had it inspected, but maybe I missed it.
I have an uncle who is a mechanic, and he might have one of those code checker things I could borrow. I just need to know where it gets plugged into the car at. Thanks
The diagnostic link connector should be mounted under the dash to the left of the ash tray or between the ash tray and steering column.
Being OBD1 they may just check that the "Check Engine" light works and does not stay on, each state is different.
Even if the cat is new, it still needs the air from the pump to work right. And not just during warm-up. All the time. That's a dual-bed cat, not a three-way. The computer adjusts the mixture differently.
It's always *possible* your emissions *might* be low enough to pass *if* your motor is SUPER well tuned *and* the allowed emissions are high enough. I doubt it.
Even if the cat is new, it still needs the air from the pump to work right. And not just during warm-up. All the time. That's a dual-bed cat, not a three-way. The computer adjusts the mixture differently.
It's always *possible* your emissions *might* be low enough to pass *if* your motor is SUPER well tuned *and* the allowed emissions are high enough. I doubt it.
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