replace entire floor, or just sections?

[Sweet_Johnny]

Yes the driver front and passenger rear are the worst, but I would also look to replace the driver front too. So basically the entire passenger side of the pan and the driver front.

Well there ya go- buy a full length passenger side ($200) and a driver's front pan ($75). Drop in the passenger side first and weld everything except where it connects to the old driver's pan, replace said pan, and finish welding. Note: I've never done this before so I'm speculating.

 

[random_farmhick]

I can't tell you what to do, but I'll tell you what I'm going to do. My passenger side rear was junk, and both fronts were "decent", and the drivers rear was good. Well I bought the passenger rear, and started cutting, and cutting, and cutting, and then I decided that I was going to really check how good the front was going to be, and decided they needed replaced too... Well the floor support needed replaced too, so I decided the best thing was to be by the time I replace the three sections, just replace the whole thing... So out came the whole floor. Now mine is gutted, the engine was just sitting in there not bolted down, even to the engine, so it was no question on that either. In my opinion, you need to either get the whole floor, or both half sections. I think if you get both half sections, you can replace them without pulling the engine/transmission, but I think you'll be glad you did for when you have to clean up the front lip. Also, the two half sections will be easier to handle by yourself if you can't get any help.

 

[Bonnewagon]

(I am in Long Island right outside of NYC)

You can expect to pay triple what the other guys think it will cost. I once had one rear foot well on a Firebird replaced by a local shop that I had a connection to. I still got screwed, waited months, charged too much. The next time I bought my first gas welding set-up, for less than they had charged me. I never looked back. Now I have oxy- stick- MIG and TIG set-ups.

 

[random_farmhick]

You can expect to pay triple what the other guys think it will cost. I once had one rear foot well on a Firebird replaced by a local shop that I had a connection to. I still got screwed, waited months, charged too much. The next time I bought my first gas welding set-up, for less than they had charged me. I never looked back. Now I have oxy- stick- MIG and TIG set-ups.

Especially for someone who never welded before, a floor pan is the perfect way to learn. So what if you get it too hot in places and burn through, don’t skip around enough and warp it a little bit, or just have crappy looking welds. It gets covered up and no one will see anything unless they pull the carpet or look under the car.

 

[paradigm]

If I replace the full floor pan I’m assuming I should weld in some temporary cross bracing to keep the car straight whiles the floor is out? Also getting to replace body mounts should be easier with the floor out?

 

[paradigm]

You can expect to pay triple what the other guys think it will cost. I once had one rear foot well on a Firebird replaced by a local shop that I had a connection to. I still got screwed, waited months, charged too much. The next time I bought my first gas welding set-up, for less than they had charged me. I never looked back. Now I have oxy- stick- MIG and TIG set-ups.

This is my concern. Body shop hanging onto the car for ages and it sitting outside and getting stolen or just beat up more. I think I’m going to attempt this job myself even though I’ve never done metal work before.

 

[paradigm]

I can't tell you what to do, but I'll tell you what I'm going to do. My passenger side rear was junk, and both fronts were "decent", and the drivers rear was good. Well I bought the passenger rear, and started cutting, and cutting, and cutting, and then I decided that I was going to really check how good the front was going to be, and decided they needed replaced too... Well the floor support needed replaced too, so I decided the best thing was to be by the time I replace the three sections, just replace the whole thing... So out came the whole floor. Now mine is gutted, the engine was just sitting in there not bolted down, even to the engine, so it was no question on that either. In my opinion, you need to either get the whole floor, or both half sections. I think if you get both half sections, you can replace them without pulling the engine/transmission, but I think you'll be glad you did for when you have to clean up the front lip. Also, the two half sections will be easier to handle by yourself if you can't get any help.

If I am going to replace the floor, I think the motor and trans will have to come out. It’s going to be a pain but it’s the right way. Plus the car isn’t even running, no drive shaft, unsure if the motor and trans even work. I should try and get it running to see if it works and then remove it after.

 

[Bonnewagon]

I should try and get it running to see if it works and then remove it after.

Smart move. Know what you have before diving into a huge job.

I think I’m going to attempt this job myself even though I’ve never done metal work before.

It is not as hard as you think. Cutting out the bad stuff is dirty work but not complicated. Welding is best but I have gotten by with sheet metal screws and fiberglass back when I was young and poor. I used to use stop and other street signs because they are actually made of really good marine grade alloy. I even used car hoods and doors just to get good quality sheet metal. You could even do all the grunt work like cutting out the rust, and fitting patch pieces, then get a local welding shop to do the final welding job.

 

[smallengineguy]

I actually had the same problem with my Regal. Also, it was a bench seat car with a column shift too. I found a donor Regal with buckets/console. I cut the entire floor out (from just in front of the rear seats to the seam below the firewall. Removed the rear window and slid the whole pan into the car from there. Welded it in and you'd never know it used to be a bench car. If you put it on a lift you can see where the new floor overlapped the old, but that's it.

 

[melloelky]

Well there ya go- buy a full length passenger side ($200) and a driver's front pan ($75). Drop in the passenger side first and weld everything except where it connects to the old driver's pan, replace said pan, and finish welding. Note: I've never done this before so I'm speculating.

could've fooled me bud,sounded like a plan.