Revisiting a past headache

[pagrunt]

Decided to see what else I have in the pile of pipes in the garage to finish up everything this afternoon. Surprised that the perfect pipes to work with are the ends I cut off the Flowmaster down pipes that I picked up that are a better set than the Pypes set I originally bought for this project/headache.

Flowmaster 81068 Flowmaster Manifold Downpipe Kit

Flowmaster's manifold downpipe kits are designed for the person who wants to use a Header-back exhaust system while using the factory exhaust manifolds. Utilizing mandrel bent 409S stainless steel tubing and high quality flange gaskets, Flowmaster's manifold downpipe kits are designed for the...

www.holley.com

Now I have to figure out how long to cut them down to allow easy assembly since I did as the instructions said & started from the back (which had to be done to ensure the "band-aid" section got everything where it needs to be.) Just will have to be able to slide the cats forward & have enough pipe to over lap for a good seal. Another option I have is to use the two sets of ball sockets that would just need about 3/4"-1" play to connect. At times if I would of kept the headers in the plan I could of had it all snugged & done, even with cats.

 

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With the exception of waiting for the band clamps to show up, I currently have an assembled exhaust system. Only bad thing I see that I did was undercut the passenger side pipe that connected the cat to the 45 pipe comimg off the X-pipe since I have just under a inch overlap at the cat & maybe near a half inch past the cuts Pypes put into the I.D. end of the 45. Everything is covered/sealed by the band clamps I did have on hand. Other than the ugly band-aid on the tailpipe it does look OK. Best thing is it's hanging from the frame & not sitting on jack stands.

Now here's the ugly with band-aid fix. I did have to add a short section to keep the end of the pipe from hitting the rear bumper bar. Not perfect but it should function & do what's needed of it if I get the right one to replace it. I band clamped it since I have no idea if Pypes will want the pipe back under the warranty replacement.

 

[CopperNick]

Saginaw 4 spd and an Inland shifter?? Caught the fourth pic and the location for the clutch return spring was Verrry interesting as this has been a wtf issue for me for a while. Pics of the exhaust system are around here somewhere but the big difference for me is no Cats and no X pipe. That said I do like the size of the cats you employed as they are significantly shorter and smaller than a pair that currently live under one of my other vehicles.

I have two saginaws sitting in the basement right now; one with a shifter set up from a mid 80's Camaro attached to it. That combo was going to be plan A for my M/Carlo but an acquaintance mentioned that he had a Muncie that was giving him grief so I did a deal for that and rebuilt it. Turned out the shaft for the countercluster had walked out of the case and someone had first tried to punch it back into place and then tried to run the box as was. Also turns out that there is a specialty shop in Texas that offers iron midplates that are drilled to accept a c-c shaft that has been drilled and tapped for a retaining screw. Cool.

As for the saginaws, they are pretty much dust collectors. Would be suitable for use in a light old school hot rod but would not trust them to survive being leaned on heavily if attached to some serious torque monster.

Good luck with your pipe "dream".



Nick

 

[pagrunt]

Saginaw 4 spd and an Inland shifter??

As for the saginaws, they are pretty much dust collectors. Would be suitable for use in a light old school hot rod but would not trust them to survive being leaned on heavily if attached to some serious torque monster.

It's a Hurst unit. I've been lucky with all the Saginaws I've used over the years. Only had one give out on me due to a older oil leak since the last owner didn't keep up with it. They take a little more of a beating than most think but my Monte will be more of a cruiser anyways.

 

[CopperNick]

Had one in my old 75 Monza and the synchros finally wore out. Pulled the unit, got the synchros replaced and some miserable nameless *ss*** No-Load, bottom feeding, c***s**k** literally took a crowbar to the hatch to break into the car to steal the box. Destroyed the hatch completely. Very old and extremely bitter memory. First brand new car and only one I ever got to purchase. Drove it to death, sold the body to some punk who thought he could build a street machine out of it; kept the motor-he didn't want it. Stuffed that mill into my 78 Monte Carlo when the V-6 suicided and ran that car for another 10 years until the body literally fell off the body mounts. Threw the body and frame away, kept the motor. Still have it sitting in engine row under the south shelves in my shop. Not sure how many miles it accumulated over the decades. It would make a neat motor for an A or T-bucket but the $$$$$ and space just do not exist; may never come to pass.



Nick

 

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Got my single bolt band clamps for the muffler/tailpipe joints today. Went to put them on, cranked them down & the pipes can still twist like I still have to crank them more. Got them positioned on the factory cuts at the ends of the mufflers but not getting the pipes locked in. Should I use some power or just keep cranking with the rachet wrench?

 

[CopperNick]

For myself I would tend to go with cranking on them by hand using a 1/2 inch drive and a 6 pt socket. Might prove simpler and safer down the road to consider warming up the Mig and tacking them together in situ, or lining 'em up, using a magic marker to place a couple of witness marks for how you want the sections to clock with respect to each other, then drag them out to the floor or bench and tack them there and then stick them back in to check for "what i did is what I wanted" and when happy, drop the lid and burn them in. This is a lot more work but my thinking here is that everywhere there is a clamp there is also the possibility of an exhaust leak. I have used band clamps under my S-10 and am still chasing a leaker to this day. Only shows with the pipes cold like on start up and then sort of goes away when some heat causes the pipes to grow a little.



Nick

 

[CopperNick]

Oh, yeah, while I am reminded, where did you get the brace that runs cross country from one shock mount to the other? Would it be something that can be installed with the body on, or is it strictly a body off exercise?



Nick

 

[pagrunt]

For myself I would tend to go with cranking on them by hand using a 1/2 inch drive and a 6 pt socket. Might prove simpler and safer down the road to consider warming up the Mig and tacking them together in situ, or lining 'em up, using a magic marker to place a couple of witness marks for how you want the sections to clock with respect to each other, then drag them out to the floor or bench and tack them there and then stick them back in to check for "what i did is what I wanted" and when happy, drop the lid and burn them in. This is a lot more work but my thinking here is that everywhere there is a clamp there is also the possibility of an exhaust leak. I have used band clamps under my S-10 and am still chasing a leaker to this day. Only shows with the pipes cold like on start up and then sort of goes away when some heat causes the pipes to grow a little.



Nick

Tacking is not an option at this time as the passenger side is subject to being replaced if Pypes would ever get the correct replacement one in & I still need to be able to loosen the pipes later as the body is off the frame.

Oh, yeah, while I am reminded, where did you get the brace that runs cross country from one shock mount to the other? Would it be something that can be installed with the body on, or is it strictly a body off exercise?



Nick

I got that from UMI to help stiffen that section of the frame. A few other members have it too.

 

[CopperNick]

Cool. Another bauble to throw money at!!!



Nick