rockers, problem.

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the best thing to do is look for black soot marks as said above, and fix the exhaust leak if that is the noise. if not you can adjust all the valves, its easy.

i was also shown once to run the engine with the valve cover off and press on the rockers with a hammer handle one at a time. when you get one to stop making noise you know you have to adjust it. watch out for the oil though! :rofl:
 
CHRIS.O said:
David,

You do not need to buy anything. There is nothing wrong with your engine. If a couple rocker are ticking then adjust those rockers and leave the others that aren't making noise alone. The engine looks high mileage and probably did not get the oil changed regularly. Thats why it has chunks of broken down oil and sludge. Don't try flushing it with cleaners or anything like that. Just clean out all you can SEE in the areas you have access to. Adjust the ticking rockers and bolt it back together. Assuming it is the rockers ticking. As another person said check for exhaust manifold leaks. Look for black burn marks or soot where the exhaust manifolds mates with the head. If you find any areas like that then you will know the exhaust manifold gasket is trashed and needs replacing which may or may not be your ticking sound.

Okay that's what I'll do because I have no money.
I am going out now to tighten them up and just put the valves back on. top it off with trans fluid and oil and test drive it around the block.
I will check for any leaks in the exhaust or marks.
Thanks again.
 
tighten what? put what valves back on?

if you took all the rockers off you need to adjust them all. search the internet, but you can pull the distributor cap and watch the rotor come around to #1 as you turn the engine over, then line up the balancer mark. this puts you at TDC #1 and you can adjust 8 valves intake and exhaust (i forget which ones). then turn the engine over one turn and line up the balancer mark again, this is TDC #6 and you can adjust all the others. it should be something like 0 lash then 1/2 turn, but please look it up first.

zero lash is when you cannot slide the pushrod up and down between the lifter and rocker. then you turn the socket a 1/4 or 1/2 turn more to seat the plunger in the lifter.
 
David Williamson said:
beermonkey9417 said:
replace the stamped rockers with roller tip ones.

Would these be good? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...earch&itemIdentifier=991549_0_0_&sortType=low
i was thinking more like this but 1.5
l.jpg
 
Yea don't just go snugging them down man. They need to be done in the proper relation to where the lifter is on the cam lobe. I hope you didn't take the rockers off. I don't think ya did but if you did well were in for a lesson in rocker arm adjustment haha. I guess either way your in for one if you think there are some rockers ticking.
 
The L to R appears normal to me , no need to buy rockers when proper adjustments will fix your "problem".

I just went threw something similar with my daughters wagon, almost as dirty inside, yuck!!!

Here is what I would do:

1) remove the nuts, rockers and pushrods , keeping them in order so they go in the same way they come out.

2)Throw the nuts in the trash. Cinch nuts are single use and never hold as well when reused. They are cheap to buy.

3)Clean the rockers, balls and push rods with your favorite solvent, remember to keep in order.

4) You now have more room to clean out all the gunk. Use spoon, fingers , whatever to get as much out without knocking chunks down into the engine. Don't tell my wife but I use the corner attachment from the vacuum cleaner. She thinks she lost it. :wink: I was able to buy a small to large hose adapter at Lowes and hooked it to my Shop Vac. This thing will suck up small rodents!!

5)Loosely install clean parts with thew new nuts putting a dab of Lucas oil threatment on all contact points.

6)Chris O has been giving good advice, not as good as mine :mrgreen: , about setting lash,. Only I do different is spinning the push rod to achieve zero lash. Once it can't spin between my thumb and index finger, while tightening the nut, you are there, zero lash. Follow what Chris or the shop manual to do the other 1/2.

7)After adjusting , If all the studs have a similar amount of thread showing, maybe 3, you are done

If you plan on running ATF or any other solvent to help clean up the motor, install a new truck filter. They are twice as big as a car filter , so it is less likely to clog from all the stuff you have knocked or are knocking loose.

Since you WILL NOT be driving with the solvent in there , it hanging low is not an issue. Run for 5-10 minute varying speeds.

Now do another oil change while oil is hot and thin. Be carefull , you can get burned. Include new filter of your choice..
 
CHRIS.O said:
Yea don't just go snugging them down man. They need to be done in the proper relation to where the lifter is on the cam lobe. I hope you didn't take the rockers off. I don't think ya did but if you did well were in for a lesson in rocker arm adjustment haha. I guess either way your in for one if you think there are some rockers ticking.

No I didn't take them off at all.
I just turned the key waited for it to go in down position and tightened it.
I did this with all 16 of them.
 
shotgun said:
The L to R appears normal to me , no need to buy rockers when proper adjustments will fix your "problem".

I just went threw something similar with my daughters wagon, almost as dirty inside, yuck!!!

Here is what I would do:

1) remove the nuts, rockers and pushrods , keeping them in order so they go in the same way they come out.

2)Throw the nuts in the trash. Cinch nuts are single use and never hold as well when reused. They are cheap to buy.

3)Clean the rockers, balls and push rods with your favorite solvent, remember to keep in order.

4) You now have more room to clean out all the gunk. Use spoon, fingers , whatever to get as much out without knocking chunks down into the engine. Don't tell my wife but I use the corner attachment from the vacuum cleaner. She thinks she lost it. :wink: I was able to buy a small to large hose adapter at Lowes and hooked it to my Shop Vac. This thing will suck up small rodents!!

5)Loosely install clean parts with thew new nuts putting a dab of Lucas oil threatment on all contact points.

6)Chris O has been giving good advice, not as good as mine :mrgreen: , about setting lash,. Only I do different is spinning the push rod to achieve zero lash. Once it can't spin between my thumb and index finger, while tightening the nut, you are there, zero lash. Follow what Chris or the shop manual to do the other 1/2.

7)After adjusting , If all the studs have a similar amount of thread showing, maybe 3, you are done

If you plan on running ATF or any other solvent to help clean up the motor, install a new truck filter. They are twice as big as a car filter , so it is less likely to clog from all the stuff you have knocked or are knocking loose.

Since you WILL NOT be driving with the solvent in there , it hanging low is not an issue. Run for 5-10 minute varying speeds.

Now do another oil change while oil is hot and thin. Be carefull , you can get burned. Include new filter of your choice..


Wow thank you so much.
This is putting it into terms I can follow and accomplish.
ChrisO has been giving me the best advice on all my car problems. even before the rockers.
But I truly appreciate the details you put into this, Thank you.
 
You dont want to just go tightening them until there is no play bud. There is a process to this. They are going to have some play depending on where they are. When you take the play up in the pushrod your setting the pre load for the lifter. When the lfiter pumps up it is actually going to be tighter now on the ones you adjusted. Tighter is not better when dealing with the valvetrain of your engine. You could have them snugged right now but when the cam moves and the lifter is on a different part of the lobe it could be way too tight now and hang valves open or worse wipe a lobe of a cam. Not likely so dont freak out.The best way in my opinion is to do it with the car running. It takes a little experience on what to listen for and what to feel for but I believe that is the best way. However it is also the messiest way if you don't have the right stuff.
 
CHRIS.O said:
You dont want to just go tightening them until there is no play bud. There is a process to this. They are going to have some play depending on where they are. When you take the play up in the pushrod your setting the pre load for the lifter. When the lfiter pumps up it is actually going to be tighter now on the ones you adjusted. Tighter is not better when dealing with the valvetrain of your engine. You could have them snugged right now but when the cam moves and the lifter is on a different part of the lobe it could be way too tight now and hang valves open or worse wipe a lobe of a cam. Not likely so dont freak out.The best way in my opinion is to do it with the car running. It takes a little experience on what to listen for and what to feel for but I believe that is the best way. However it is also the messiest way if you don't have the right stuff.

Ugh seems like I should just buy the DVD and then when it comes finally do it myself.
Cause If i take it to a shop I am spending money, I don't have.
If I do it myself I run the risk of making it worse.

So I might just get the DVD and wait for it to come in and then just watch it a couple times and then do it.
 
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