Rotational torque

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Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
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I'm reading 12-15 on your chart. That number would typically be measured without the carrier in place.
When I replace a pinion seal I usually take a chisel and mark the yoke, nut, and pinion in a line, then count how many threads are exposed. Then I remove the nut and yoke, swap out the seal and reassemble. So far, never an issue. I guess technically you'd want to go just a shade tighter if you want to get back into spec.
YMMV.

I too have been chickenshit for many a year for all the reasons you mentioned. I used paint marker, but the same method Driven mentioned on my Camaro, dually, and 1500 because they ALL leaked. Now they don't, and the rears on the trucks are no different than before. The Camaro has yet to see speed, but I can't imagine it being any different. After the first I quit counting threads, it'll bottom out less than 90 degrees from where it was originally and the rest is preload. Don't forget to smear some RTV into the splines before you put it all back together, I forgot to on the Camaro and the dually but am not really anticipating it to leak from there. If it does, I'll yank it all back apart and do the RTV. It's a seriously easy job, especially with yours there on the bench.
 
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white85

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 2, 2020
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I also had read about applying gray rtv on the splines and it all worked out good for me thanks to help of these guys, thanks.
 
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