Rotational torque

[white85]

I been working on a rear end swap for a while now (mostly bc I was so disorganized from the start). Anyway I’m at a point where I want to change the the pinion seal but I really don’t want to mess with replacing the crush sleeve bc I over torqued it.

Searching for specs I found this which says with a used bearing it should be 6-7 inch-lbs which sounds low imo. https://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/setup-specs

I’ve also seen where it should be 20-25 , right now mine is reading about 5-6 this is a 10 bolt 7.5 3:73 posi rear end I’m working with.

Here’s a few pictures of what I’ve done so far.
Clean up and painted underneath.

Bought some cool parts

Replaced bushing, backing plates & axle seals

Still waiting on a new diff cover& KYB Gas adjust shocks. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[DRIVEN]

I'm reading 12-15 on your chart. That number would typically be measured without the carrier in place.
When I replace a pinion seal I usually take a chisel and mark the yoke, nut, and pinion in a line, then count how many threads are exposed. Then I remove the nut and yoke, swap out the seal and reassemble. So far, never an issue. I guess technically you'd want to go just a shade tighter if you want to get back into spec.
YMMV.

 

[white85]

Oops I linked the wrong chart, but that’s kinda the point the number really varies.
I’ve read about doing it like you said but it was also recommended to me that I use a new nut which I could still probably do it how you suggested. Here’s the chart I was referring to and thanks for the reply.
https://www.crawlpedia.com/ring_pinion_setup.htm

 

[DRIVEN]

If you use a new nut you'll lose the chisel mark and the thread count won't be accurate. It's totally up to you. You know the "right" way to do it. I was just offering the flat rate method. I've done dozens that way over the years. To my knowledge, never a failure.

 

[pontiacgp]

I used loctite on the nut, I did it the same way Driven did his

 

[pontiacgp]

One other thing I did was to replace the outer bearing on the pinion, there is always a reason for a seal starting to leak

 

[white85]

Thanks for the help, this is the first one I have ever done so I’m a bit apprehensive is all. Seeing all the the different specs I wasn’t sure which number to try and hit.
I will probably just reuse the nut and do it as you guys suggest, it seems to be the safest way.

 

[DRIVEN]

You'll be fine. It seems that there's been some weird stigma about doing anything to a diff. Guys tend to overthink it until they get a little experience.

 

[Bullett801]

Its not so bad, I am tackling it for the fist time, entire Ring and Pinion gears, carrier and bearing swap. Just time consuming. dos not sound like you are doing that much so listen to these guys and ask any questions. The guys on here are great and have a ton of information to offer. Nice set up BTW, while ya got the diff out you should upgrade the drum to disc brakes. Its am easy and inexpensive swap. All the info you need is on this forum and videos on you tube. Big difference! What kind of engine and trans are you running? HP?? Tq?? I was just wondering cuz alot of speculation about a 7.5 10 Bolt, and that is what I am also building. just cause it was already there and fairly cheap to upgrade and build. Good Luck!!

 

[white85]

Thanks the rear ended is already back in

I looked into the disc brake upgrades and decided that I need to put my money into getting a motor first. I’m just about ready to pull the trans & motor then I can finish painting the underneath and engine compartment. Since I will be rebuilding the front end I will probably upgrade the front brakes to S10. I might upgrade the rears eventually but the front does all work.

I have a freshly rebuilt 700R ready to install and my plan is to get a crate 330 hp 350. I just want it to be reliable and something me and the wife can cruise around in.