The last two that I did I put in the chamber and blasted them. blasting will get everything off.
Sand blast or wire brush a rear?
- Thread starter Bonnewagon
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If you want a rally nice look with all the nooks looking nice, blasting is the only way to go. Do it outside cause the media gets everywhere. Use plenty of tape to seal the areas you don't wan the media to get in.
Gave up trying to grind it off with my die grinder. Carefully taped it up & Had it media blasted with zinc oxide.
Really happy with how it turned out.
Really happy with how it turned out.
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The problem with blasting is that the rear is at a metal working shop that is not really equipped for that. We have a big compressor, a portable blasting gun, but no booth or place to contain the media. I have even used refrigerator boxes in the past. I suggested building a frame and wrapping it with a tarp to blast in and we will see if that materializes. But I really like the Evapo-rust gel idea. Then power wash the gunk off. So far it is available in 8oz jars for $10 a pop everywhere. I can't see that working. The large 1 gallon jug is between $50-100. I found a 5 gallon bucket for $200 but it is third party ordered by ZORO which has the worst feedback/reviews in history. I keep looking.
UPDATE: NPD has the gallon for $50. With shipping $61.90. That cuts about $30 off the 8oz price. And I have another rear project waiting so the gallon will not go to waste. EDIT: My goofy math- a gallon is $160 buying 8oz at a time. So saving $100 is more like it. 
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I had the rear in my SS acid dipped, the builder took care of it all but that was the method he liked before putting it all back together. Was a little crusty when I got it in 99’ I coated it in por-15(silver for some reason, I was 19) some might recognize it, it was posted showing the differences of 8.5 to 7.5 on the Olds forum and made the rounds.
This past summer I got around to prepping one for the wagon, some rust but not bad. Did the wire wheel deal and it turned out nice. If it was rustier I would of looked into sand blasting, didn’t want to gut the thing for acid dipping, this one wasn’t getting rebuilt just freshened up.
*Need to take a pic of the whole rear end
This past summer I got around to prepping one for the wagon, some rust but not bad. Did the wire wheel deal and it turned out nice. If it was rustier I would of looked into sand blasting, didn’t want to gut the thing for acid dipping, this one wasn’t getting rebuilt just freshened up.
*Need to take a pic of the whole rear end
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Anytime I'm going to paint rusted steel I use a wire brush and phosphoric acid, which is also used to etch concrete and mortar. Fun fact it is also the acidic flavoring additive in Coca-Cola. It pickles the rusted steel black, and after rinse, good for paint.
What about soda as your blasting medium? Or possibly walnut shells? Both are bio friendly and need no special booth or shelter in which to shoot. About all you ought to need is a good source of air and a couple of tarps to throw underneath the diff to catch the fallout. There is also an air driven tool that looks like a lot of steel rods in a bundle, can't think of the industrial name for it but it is reputed to do a great job on heavy calculus and crud.
In my case what may occur is that I drop out the old diff and plug in the olds10 bolt from the rear end rack as it is cleaner and could be cosmetically sanitized with less work and time. Being out removes the hassle of me having to slither under the car and try to strip the rear end in situ; my lungs are about done with dust and corruption plus it also makes it easier to swap in the upper poly bushings that have been inhabiting my downstairs freezer for the last decade or so. It would also depend on what the ratio in the olds is. Still doesn't solve the peg-leg problem but Easton does make a true-trac so...................
Nick
In my case what may occur is that I drop out the old diff and plug in the olds10 bolt from the rear end rack as it is cleaner and could be cosmetically sanitized with less work and time. Being out removes the hassle of me having to slither under the car and try to strip the rear end in situ; my lungs are about done with dust and corruption plus it also makes it easier to swap in the upper poly bushings that have been inhabiting my downstairs freezer for the last decade or so. It would also depend on what the ratio in the olds is. Still doesn't solve the peg-leg problem but Easton does make a true-trac so...................
Nick
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