ok so my buddy has a 327 that we got ahold of that was in good shape but used, it was bored to 60 over. so we order all of the stuff to rebuild it including brand new 60 over coated pistons, they were not too cheap. problem is during his last move he lost the main caps somewhere and they are gone, the machine shop says it will cost like 3-400 dollars to match another set of main caps to it. i have 2 350 blocks sitting here that are still standard bore but could use a bore to be good, question is should we bore one to 60 over and use the pistons we already have or should we go to 30 over and buy another set of pistons. it is cheaper to us to take another block to 60 over and use the kit we have. and for those wondering about a 327 with a 350 block, its a large journal crank so you can use it in a 350 block and still have a 327. one block i have is a 4 bolt main, we could use that and then say we have a 4 bolt 327.....
sbc block question
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i say bore the 350 .060 and keep the pistons. it's kindof the best of both worlds. a stronger block with the same displacement that you can rev the piss out of 
. if you don't already have rods i'd look at using 6.0in rods.
actually destroking it will be perfect for forced induction!! 8)
. if you don't already have rods i'd look at using 6.0in rods. actually destroking it will be perfect for forced induction!! 8)
they have to be matched for size and roundness first. then you have to align hone the block. that's why you always label them when you pull the crank, each cap HAS to go back in it's original spot.
pistons for a 327 may be the same bore, but they will have different pin locations. A good reliable short block would be your 4 bolt main 350 with a balanced eagle rotating assembly. For under a grand you can have a kit with coated pistons and they are rated to 500 horse, and if you have a little extra coin, you might as well go for the 383. There is no replacement for displacement!
smblk331 said:
Yes, but if he uses a 327 crank in a 350 block, the bore and stroke will be the same. Also, all Small Block Chevys with the exception of the 400 used the same rod length-5.7 inches (400 is 5.565, IIRC). The compression height would only change if the stroke, rod length or deck height changed in this case, so the pistons will work no problem in the 350 block bored out to 4.060 inches. Now were he to go to 6 inch rods, he would need a new set of pistons as they would be sitting .3 in above the deck. The only thing that could hurt this combo is if the block had a previous line bore which would not allow it to work with the bearings available for the 327 crank he was using, due to the crank being ground too small, or something like that. I like the idea of building a high-revving small block.
we are using a set of rods out of a 305 since the rods are also missing, dont ask me how he lost all of this stuff. the engine we pulled out of the car was a 305 so we figured we would recycle at least one thing from it. i dont think there is going to be a differance in strength compared to the original stock rods?? this engine is suppose to be a budget build up and he is not going for all out power or racing so dumping a grand into the lower end as mentioned above is out of the question right now. thanks for the help guys, block is going in next week to get hot tanked, magnafluxed, bored and new cam bearings and froast plugs installed.
The 305 rods will probably work fine so long as you do not plan on revving it very high. Then again, that defeats the purpose of building a 327. I would consider a set of inexpensive aftermarket rods as a good compromise. Look at what Eagle offers as I think they have some inexpensive forged rods which would offer a nice increase in strength should you want to rev it high.
For the record, I run a cast crank, stock rod, 2 bolt 350 in my car and have never had bottom end problems, but do not rev it over 6,000 rpm.
For the record, I run a cast crank, stock rod, 2 bolt 350 in my car and have never had bottom end problems, but do not rev it over 6,000 rpm.
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