Setting in distributor BBC

[Pontiac455]

My guess is a incorrect timing tab. Thats fine unless ya used it to zero the crank when u installed yer cam. If not ignore the marking on the tab find tru top dead center and install the distributor. When its fully installed it should be almost at twelve oclock, pointing to the front of the car. Another thing I have seen is the ppl change the pick up coil and install the distributor gear 180 degrees out. There is a drilled notch in the gear that has to line up the same way the rotor button is facing.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

When I put a piece of wire into the spark plug hole and wait for the piston to come up it reads 24-25 degrees on the balancer. That's both valves closed and #1 at TDC. The timing tab was a universal fit tab for small blocks. It didn't quite fit my timing cover so I had to modify it. But when I set up #1 at TDC on the engine stand it read at 0 degrees. This time I completely ignored the timing mark and just found TDC by hand. It read 24-25 degrees like I said and even with the distributor dropped in there it still doesn't run right. I checked the wires and they are right so now im officially lost.

 

[Pontiac455]

Make sure all the plugs are firing. Check the temp of the header tubes.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Make sure all the plugs are firing. Check the temp of the header tubes.

When I got it to run for a few seconds all of the tubes seemed to feel the same. They were all warm with no noticeable difference between them.

 

[GuysMonteSS]

I sure hope you get it figured out.
How long did it run when you did the break in ??
Roller or flat tappet cam ??
Solid or hydraulic ??
Is the lash set correctly ?? Did you set lash using the EOIC method ??
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/02/2 ... alve-lash/
If the lash isn't right this could be causing some of the problems you are experiencing.
Gotta be something fairly simple,keep looking...
Guy

 

[lilbowtie]

Set the engine up to #1 TDC like you had it on your engine stand(both valves closed). Pull the cap and see if the rotor is pointed @ #1. If not you need to set the distributor to it - if it means resetting the distributor make sure you move the oil pump so it will fall in where you want it. I like to use a static setting on the distributor by setting the damper to 10 deg. adv, loosen the dist. hold down put a spark plug in the #1 wire and ground it somewhere. With the key on rotate the dist. till you see the plug fire and lock the dist. down. This will be good enough till you get a light on it.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Guy, its a flat tappet cam. I got about 17 minutes of break in on it. It got a little too warm for my liking so I shut it off. I started it back up about an hour later and ran it for a couple more minutes that's when I decided to check the timing. I set it to TDC on #1 and lifted the cap, thats where I seen that the distributor was about 1 tooth off. I lifted the distributor and set it back down so it pointed directly at #1 and now its running like sh*t-er barely running at all. The valves were set on the stand with about a 1/2 turn preload. They all feel the same right now, no loose or tight push rods.

Lilbowtie, I set #1 at TDC the same way I did on the stand, with a ratchet on the balancer bolt and a piece of baling wire in the spark plug hole. With the piston all the way up and both valves closed the distributor points right at #1. Not a tooth off, I mean its dead nuts on and it still doesn't run.

Will repeated back fires through the carb damage a Quadrajet by any chance? I know a Holley would but what it I screwed something up in the carb? That would explain why even though the initial timing (appears to be) dead on the engine won't run on it's own. With my work schedule for the next couple days it's gonna be hard to find time to work on it so all I can do right now is think about it which drives me crazy

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Alright I haven't made much progress because of work and my grandfather being rushed to the hospital but had a few hours to mess with it today.

I tried bumping the key to roll the engine over and out of nowhere the engine seized. After doing some quick digging I found that the starter locked up. I couldn't move the engine AT ALL! I loosened the bolts to the starter and it freed the engine up. Im not sure what caused the starter to seize like that. I know timing can affect how an engine rolls over so maybe(hopefully) that has something to do with it.

Im in the process of making a piston stop but ran out of time before work. I did however pull the plugs last time I had it running for a few seconds. Here is a photo of them. #2 and #5 were wet to the touch with fuel, the others just moist. My guess is the combination of new rings, and timing issues. Im going to get new plugs tomarow. It would be awesome if I had the timing right the first time I moved it but the plugs were so fouled from break in that it ran the way it did.
496 spark plugs by bwollens1983, on Flickr
Here is the distributor to coolant fitting clearance I was talking about. Not sure how much of an issue this could be. Couldn't I just turn the distributor CW a tad and move the wires if it proves to be an issue?
distributor angle by bwollens1983, on Flickr

 

[GuysMonteSS]

Yes you can move the wires and move the distributor to fit.
Just curious,but why do you have coolant lines in the rear of the intake ??
Guy

 

[565bbchevy]

Just curious,but why do you have coolant lines in the rear of the intake ??
Guy

It is a rear cooling set up since the water at rear of the intake deadheads this set up returns it to under the thermostat housing I have this on my big block and also on my future sbc build. I have the 8 AN lines going under my runners on my big block and below is my sbc set up with the lines up top.