I have a 80 Cutlass its a full body car with a pro/built 461" olds 1050 Dominator stage 2 drag porting done to Torker intake and heads, has eagle crank and Rods. Forged pistons 12.5 to 1 motor on 110 octane has been balanced and has new block and heads from Rocket Racing runs 10.70's off the trailer no spray. Has a built Turbo 400 manual valve body deep pan but no transbrake, car is running a 12 bolt with a spool all moser 4.11 gearing 33 spline axles and C clip eliminators. Has upper and lower control arm upgrades also bags in both coils and a anti Roll set up. Runs on ET Drag 29.5/10.5/15 stiff wall Slicks this car is still over 3550lbs as it sets how much weight can I shed off it. The only thing thats been taken off is the heater box. Still has power windows all stock glass and rear seat has a 6 pt bar and its a hard leaver 1.45 60fts of the footbrake at about 1500rpms I know I can loose the headlites and all hardware running a 8 gal cell in trunk and battery in trunk so stock fuel tank is also gone along with fuel pump, running a Magna fuel 500 pump and filter, electric fan, and electric driven water pump. Also full MSD ignition 6al,coil,Dist how much weight can I get rid of oh I also just put a set of drag buckets in it but the rear seat is still in it. The car haus *ss right now and I do not intend to run it on the street but I do want to keep it Titled. I know if I can remove 750lbs or so I should be real close to a 10 flat car.
Shedding some weight on my 80 Cutlass
- Thread starter Bigdaddy198
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What does it have for aluminum parts? There are more factory available parts for the 78-80 Cutlass, cheaper. Get a fiberglass trunk lid too. Those years are lighter, my 88 is around 3750 at race weight, many are about 100 pounds more.
the G body is hard to get rid of weight. We use to race G bodies and stripped it down to just the sheet metal with all the reinforcement bars and the double sheet metal on the hood and trunk lid gone and of course all the glass was gone Granted we did add a 6 point cage with front and rear hoops and bumpers so that added weight. We had to add lead to try to get some rear weight and some wedge and I don't think we ever got it down to the minimum race weight of 3100 lbs. G body's are terrible for the front end weight with the engine sitting so far forward and high. With our pro late model we add around 600 lbs of lead to get it to race weight of 2700 lbs.
I do have a Glass cowl hood on the stock hinges without springs. But I still have wiper motor and wiper blades, all the headlites and buckets I want to keep the trim rings to put some dummy plastic in the holes, also what can I loose as far as weight if I remove the complete steering column and put a drag type setup and also loose the stock dash and cluster all stock wiring, carpet and insulation padding and rear seat all the belts I already took out the headliner and do they have fiberglass doors for the Cutlass I plan on removing all glass and going with Lexan, the trunk lid could go I have put a sheet aluminum floor under the Fuel Cell and Battery, I want to pull out all wiring and the stock fuse panel and go with a painless 7 circuit fuse panel 3 always live and 4 on ignition only and just use a Moroso 6 switch panel and starter button Also eliminate evey nut bolt wite screw put in a sheet metal dash with 4 guages as I plan on keeping the charging system. But I dont want any power windows or steel doors I plan on backhalfing this car over the winter and going with a 4 link and try and stay with a 4.56 ratio with 32/14/15 slicks so I know when I get to that point I should have enough stuff took out to fill up a dumpser as I plan on cutting out all the stock flooring and rear seat metal and rear wheel wells and square tube as much of the sub assembly as I can. I am going to keep racing it for the rest of the season and just start removing what I can in my spare time. Thus making the big job over the winter. I know this car is very front heavy and was wondering if I would have to add weight to the rear to keep it Hooking. I just added a new Motorcraft 1190 cranking amp battery as it was having a hard time keeping up with all thats electric so I also had a 130 amp alternator built for it but I figure if I have too I will add another one of those big Battery's as they are heavy plus I would no longer have to worry about quick cooling it in the pits and forgetting to kill the power so I did not run out of power while making a pass. I took out 1200 lbs of stuff out of my last car and you would never know it unless you got under it and under the hood.
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My 82 is similar that you will end up with. Glass hood/truck S&W backhalf/4 link 14 point cage(still has the 1 3/4 main hoop from the original roll bar), 557BBC/glide, front moly control arms,qa1 coil overs, R&P steering, moly radiator support, Took out all the original wiring and rewired it using an ARC panel. Still using a gutted stock dash. headliner intact. crash bar removed from pass door. More done that I can't remember at the moment. Weighed it several weeks ago and it was 3010 without driver.
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