Shifter question

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dave_s1987

Greasemonkey
Oct 8, 2015
131
19
18
Ontario Canada
i know this has probably been beat to death but I just got my car back from getting a new exhaust on and now that it's back my column shifter will not clear my long tube headers.

I'm pretty frustrated at this point as I really want to break it in before winter hits.

It's looking like my only option is to convert to buckets seats and floor shifter

My question is do i have to drop my transmission to install brackets for the shifter? Or can the complete install be done from inside the car? Also does it only work with bucket seats or can it work with a bench seat as well?

Thanks in advance
 
I know we had an aftermarket floor shifter mounted in front of the bench seat in the '83 Monte Carlo. It used a cable instead of a linkage. You loose the ability to slide the seat forward that way though.
 
the floor shifter ties into your column shifter anyways. Need to figure out a way to make the linkage work if you want to retain the ignition lock, reverse lights, park/neutral switch. Which headers do you have that wont clear ?
 
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the floor shifter ties into your column shifter anyways. Need to figure out a way to make the linkage work if you want to retain the ignition lock, reverse lights, park/neutral switch. Which headers do you have that wont clear ?

I did not know that but it definitely makes sence.. I'm not sure what I'm going to do now. Maybe I'll bend the crap out of the linkage and see it will work lol

The headers I bought were from kijiji. Bought them a long time ago and slapped some paint down and installed them. I would have went with different headers if I knew this before they welded up my new exhaust. I guess it's just one more kick to the nuts as I try to get this thing going lol I'm sure I'll figure it out eventually
 
I assume the car was in the bay to put the exhaust on, why didn't the guys at the shop suggest anything and how did they get it in gear to back it out?. I had my exhaust done by Budget Exhaust in Burlington at 4179 Harvester Road. They did a great job, very reasonably priced and are nice to deal with...
 
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I assume the car was in the bay to put the exhaust on, why didn't the guys at the shop suggest anything and how did they get it in gear to back it out?. I had my exhaust done by Budget Exhaust in Burlington at 4179 Harvester Road. They did a great job, very reasonably priced and are nice to deal with...

I didn't have my drive shaft in.

The guy at that discount didn't have a lot of knowledge and they were the highest of 5 quotes in burl/Hamilton ($1400 header-back)Also said that they not good at installing long tube headers and wouldn't even consider doing it lol (I ended up doing it myself to save $ anyways) he also didn't seem to know what true dual exhaust was and kept saying that my car came with a Y pipe and he would have to order that in and all this stuff.. It was strange. I ended up going to speedy in Burlington where the guy was very knowledgable in comparison. (Wanted $300 for the header install though so that's why I did it myself)

Unfortunately these guys only do what's asked of them and I never bothered asking them to hook up my transmission.l so I Cant really blame them.. Although that would be easy lol
 
Back when I was shopping for headers I saw that several, depending on part number and manufacturer, indicated there would be interference with the column shift linkage. I've also read about guys having to 'tweak' the linkage to make it work with headers.

Otherwise you have a few options. If you wanted to go with the factory floor shift, you would still have the linkage between the trans and the column to contend with. That linkage is there on a factory floor shift for functionality of the neutral safety switch, the back-up lights, the ignition lock cylinder interlock and the instrument cluster mounted shift indicator. When the floor shifter is moved, the mechanical linkage causes the lower 'collar' of a floor shift column to rotate just as it would when you move the gear lever on a column shift. If you wanted to go with buckets and console then you could do so without pulling the transmission. The mounting brackets for the console and the inner seat mount brackets for the buckets are spot welded to the floor board from the inside. If your car has a split bench then the inner seat mounts for the buckets are already there.

The easiest thing to do would be to find a different set of headers that will work with the column shift linkage and have your exhaust shop modify the very front portion of the new exhaust system to fit them as necessary.

Otherwise you could put in an aftermarket floor shifter either with the bench or with a pair of buckets. You would either have to be able to move the neutral safety wiring and back-up light wiring to the new shifter or you would lose that functionality. Your shift indicator in the instrument cluster would no longer function. There are aftermarket shifters that have their own shift indicator. You would need to remove the column mounted shift lever, decide to live with it or change to a column shift column.

No matter what you do, if you can't make the linkage between the transmission and the column work with the header, you will lose functionality of the ignition lock cylinder interlock. You would need to 'immobilize' the collar of the steering column in either the park or neutral position so the ignition lock cylinder will move freely from the 'lock' position to start, run and accessory positions. The downside will be that it will then be possible to lock the lock cylinder (which locks the steering wheel) while driving the car.

Hopefully this will help you make a good decision on how to proceed.
 
Back when I was shopping for headers I saw that several, depending on part number and manufacturer, indicated there would be interference with the column shift linkage. I've also read about guys having to 'tweak' the linkage to make it work with headers.

Otherwise you have a few options. If you wanted to go with the factory floor shift, you would still have the linkage between the trans and the column to contend with. That linkage is there on a factory floor shift for functionality of the neutral safety switch, the back-up lights, the ignition lock cylinder interlock and the instrument cluster mounted shift indicator. When the floor shifter is moved, the mechanical linkage causes the lower 'collar' of a floor shift column to rotate just as it would when you move the gear lever on a column shift. If you wanted to go with buckets and console then you could do so without pulling the transmission. The mounting brackets for the console and the inner seat mount brackets for the buckets are spot welded to the floor board from the inside. If your car has a split bench then the inner seat mounts for the buckets are already there.

The easiest thing to do would be to find a different set of headers that will work with the column shift linkage and have your exhaust shop modify the very front portion of the new exhaust system to fit them as necessary.

Otherwise you could put in an aftermarket floor shifter either with the bench or with a pair of buckets. You would either have to be able to move the neutral safety wiring and back-up light wiring to the new shifter or you would lose that functionality. Your shift indicator in the instrument cluster would no longer function. There are aftermarket shifters that have their own shift indicator. You would need to remove the column mounted shift lever, decide to live with it or change to a column shift column.

No matter what you do, if you can't make the linkage between the transmission and the column work with the header, you will lose functionality of the ignition lock cylinder interlock. You would need to 'immobilize' the collar of the steering column in either the park or neutral position so the ignition lock cylinder will move freely from the 'lock' position to start, run and accessory positions. The downside will be that it will then be possible to lock the lock cylinder (which locks the steering wheel) while driving the car.

Hopefully this will help you make a good decision on how to proceed.

Thank you very much for all the useful information. After taking a couple of days to think about it decided to give an aftermarket linkage a try. I order the lokar ACA-1800 in hopes that I will be able to bend/cut and modify it to work with my current setup. If that doesn't work than I will be ordering a new set of long tube headers.

Does anyone here happen to ave any experience with a lokar shifter linkage on their g-body? I heard that the cable shifter linkage doesn't (ACA-1804) work with g-bodies but i don't know about the linkage I ordered will work or not.. I guess there's only one way to find out.

Thanks again for all the info!
 
Thank you very much for all the useful information. After taking a couple of days to think about it decided to give an aftermarket linkage a try. I order the lokar ACA-1800 in hopes that I will be able to bend/cut and modify it to work with my current setup. If that doesn't work than I will be ordering a new set of long tube headers.

Does anyone here happen to ave any experience with a lokar shifter linkage on their g-body? I heard that the cable shifter linkage doesn't (ACA-1804) work with g-bodies but i don't know about the linkage I ordered will work or not.. I guess there's only one way to find out.

Thanks again for all the info!
I like your idea on the aftermarket linkage. I hope it works out. Be sure to let us know how you come out with it.
 
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